Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah i just got a soft cloth and rubbed a bit it, tries to wipe it off but it was a bit difficult so i just used a wet cloth and then just dried it off afterwards, came up good i rekon.

predator666:

you get to the bulbs from your engine bay, there is a cover that you just give a half turn to and it gives you access to the globes, have a look and twist the cover of, it should all be pretty self explainitory from there, globes range in price, depending on if you want just normal ones or pretty blue ones, hahaha :P

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

R33_Cam: thanx but, err, yeah, i know how to do that.. I wanna know how i can pull the whole front lens off the rest of the assembly to clean. Sounds like other people have done it.

There are some clips, but i've removed them, and it doesn't come off.

Meguires Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Polish - works best - takes it off easily and it doesnt build up again for a while after. Bought it in K-Mart auto but anywhere that sells Meguires should stock it - from memory its not terribly expensive either. Haha i saw that a lot of the cars had frosty lights at the last cruise and quite a few ppl asked me what i used.

  • 3 weeks later...

If u ever wana get em off put em in the oven for a few min without letting them melt till the goo stuff goes soft n rip em apart

then jam it back together and put it back in for another few to hardend the goo again

werkd for me

but dont try it if u dont trust ureself :(

I hit mine with cutting compound, works a treat.

Don't bother doing it by hand as it wont last long.

I had a friend do it with a very fine polish/cut compound, worked but did not last.

This time I insisted he use the hardest cutting compound he had.

Have a real close look the plastic is very thick.

I also replaced my bulbs with Phillips Opti blue, about $80 a set including parkers.

I found that when I pulled the parkers out they were stuffed and just crumbled in my hand.

Have the problem where I have had condensation on the inside of my lights leaving nice dirty streaks inside... so mine will be going in the oven soon.

Some ppl's lights look really clean but at night u can tell if they have had the inside done too, as heaps i have seen have the same streaks.

My soarer came in and the plastic had almost gone pearly. Had some old kitten cut & polish in a tin at home and it made a huge diff. Finished off with meguires plastic polish

  • 1 year later...

The parking/side lights come out from behind the headlight - the same as the low/high beams... you put your hand in there (hope you dont have big hands) and very akwardly twist it about 1/4 turn, and it comes out, you put your new globe in, and put it back in, with a 1/4 turn and done :D

takes a bit of patients and a few cramps in the hand from the akward angles :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...