Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i rang up jet seped and some lady picked up i asked if they sell those dials and she goes no i thought hrmm and hanged up

any where else in melbourne have them?

and also what is e-tronics number?? i tried the one funky monkey put there but dosnt work

also is it worth trying to get some prfessinal to do it or try to do it my self iam not sure???

or will i get one of you guys here give ya 100 buckz and you can help me do it lol

how can you check your calibration weather it is right or not???

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i'm going to have to see them in the flash..that photo looks good but its hard to see it too well.

inasnt - you have them in yours? you coming on sat-day dyno thingabob? might have a look...

My dials are fine at night, but still, they could have cooler bits.

I've got an idea for something to try maybe way better for the lighting (no, not neon) but i'd have to pull it all apart first... hmmm!

sorry dragon18

i would help you but ur too fare away.

im waiting for an impul bodykit from j-spec in melbourn and need to get it to sydney, so maybe if you want to help me out i will help you out................

dragon ill help you

just did mine yesterday and it seems to be fine, what i did was pushed each needle clockwise to its 'maximum' and anti-clockwise to its other 'max' and then marked the two spots, then twisted it anti-clockwise past its maximum as i pulled up and the needle popped off, then i just stuck the EL face over the factory onewith double sided tape (not the thick stuff, regular sticky tape thin) and then put the needle back at the maximum it was at when i twisted it off, then i checked that the needle would move between these maximums and if it didnt i just adjusted it by turning it the amount required past the maxium until it was moving between the maximuums perfect, and with that theory everyrthing seems to be how it was, havent 100% checked the speedo yet but its definitely not way out as i went for a drive this morning and it felt like i nwas doing the speed on the speedo, are there any places who can cheaply just test to make sure calibration is ok ? coz if its a cheap cost to ensure it is i'd like to just get it checkd but im pretty sure its all sweet, looks ****ing awesome too :(

DJ_L3ThAL

u r meant to take the black faced gauges off and replace em with the el ones!! Since u already took the needles off, its a piece of piss to take the black gauges off!

Pred

Yep i will there on sat, but u wont be able to see the backlight, in the sunlight.

Originally posted by DJ_L3ThAL

nah its easier to double sided tape them, coz i left the regular light bulbs in the dahsh and with just the EL on it the light shines through and the blue doesnt look as good as u neeed the factory bulbs to light the odometer etc :D

u r also meant to take out most of the normal bulbs except the the warning lights! U cant see the odometer when the el light is on, but hey who cares doesent worry me! :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...