Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did a search and came back with 100+ results soooo...

I know there are three different types of plugs

Copper

Platinum

Iridium

I have heard of gaps from 0.8 to 1.1

Platinum and Iridium last longer but how much under normal driving?

I met a fellow member and he uses coppers every 10k.

Mine are Iridiums and they've lasted 100k.

I have learnt that the gap depends on the boost you are running, for stock the gap is 1.1mm if you are running 12psi or above 0.8 is recomended, as for plugs there is no perfomance gain to be gained from any but the life of the plug is greatly increased with platinum (80,000ks) and better still with iridium (100,000-160,000ks) compared to coppers which are recomended to change at 5,000ks although some say they last to 10,000 upto 40,000, if you can change them yourself go the coppers recomended below, I am using iridiums and they have been in there for 100,000k now and still good, I know because I keep pulling them out when something else stuffs up. Price wise they arent worth it really, I have been told that they are good in motors where changing the plugs are an absolute pain.

Generally speaking if a plug has a higher number than another it runs a colder heat range. eg. BCPR6ES ..... BCPR7ES colder plugs are good for preignition troubles.

Boost effects spark gap at 12 psi and above, the gap narrows down to 0.8.

FOR COPPER

They are good to 5k last at least 10k up to 40k

NGK for RB25det................. BKR6EYA or Platimum PFR5G-11

NGK for rb20/26det............. BCPR6ES or Platimum PFR6A-11

NGK for RB25NEOdet............ BCPR6ES or Platimum PFR6A-11

For PLATINUM

Good to 80k

NGK for RB25det................. PFR5G-11

NGK for rb20/26det............. PFR6A-11

NGK for RB25NEOdet............ PFR6A-11

NGKs Website

For IRIDIUM

Good to 150k

NKG for RB25det................ BKR5EIX-11

NKG for RB25neo............... BKR6EIX-11

NKG for RB20/26det........... BCPR6EIX-11

Denso for Rb25det............. IK20

Denso for Rb25det.. cold.... IK22

And go Here for a good SAU price on the Iridium plugs.

If you change your plugs and still have misfire isssues especially around the 3,000 - 5,000 rpm range it could be your coil packs are stuffed, its fairly common considering mine was 10 yrs old when mine started arcing out. Splitfire coilpacks are the best replacement and you can get a great deal from Dan (if he gives me a link)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104405-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

ok...I just did the biggest lot of finding this week...

Normal plugs for a Skyline RB25det -

You want the BKR6EYA's.

If you want to go a colder heat range, and stay in Copper, and NGK, get the BKR7E's.

As for Denso, IK20's for Iridium (Same as NGK "6" heat range) or the IK22's for Iridium Denso plugs (same as NGk's "7" heat range)

Denso copper - K20R-U - (same as NGK's "6" heat range)

Denso copper - K22PR-U (same as NGK's "7" heat range)

Use this tool, its the best I have ever seen.

http://www.denso.com.au/sparkplug/xref

Good luck finding any of the denso's you are after though.

here's a few tips also -

1. If the plug has a "-11" on the end, its gapped to 1.1 mm. If it has nothing on the end like this, its 0.8mm - 0.9mm gap.

2. Some have longer necks than others so be careful.

3. If you're running high boost and are running into pre-ignition problems, try "7" heat range (colder plugs) or 22 heat range in denso.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104405-spark-plugs/#findComment-1923121
Share on other sites

Updated iridium section

I'm hoping that when I get a complete listing that I can this stickyed in the app section.

Posted by WRXHOON in another thread

platinum and iridum plugs are better cause the tip is only .6 mm and u get much better spark . the reson the nickel plugs tip is thicker is cause if they made it that thin it would only last a few k's platinum and especialy iridium are much harder so last a lot longer .

typical life , nickel 30k k's , platinum 100 , iridium 150.

probably less in a turbo gtr driving it hard less still but still 5 times longer than nickel .

And this by MegaGTS4 Here

Bosch recommends when installing spark plugs to use a torque wrench and the correct torque in ft.-lbs. As listed below:

10mm With Gasket - 8-11 FT.-LBS

12mm With Gasket - 12-15 FT.-LBS

14mm With Gasket - 19-22 FT.-LBS

14mm Tapered Seat - 12-15 FT.-LBS

18mm With Gasket - 20-23 FT.-LBS

18mm Tapered Seat - 14-17 FT.-LBS

If a torque wrench is not available, hand tighten the plug until it is seated in the cylinder head. Spark plugs with gaskets should be tightened an additional 90°. Spark plugs with tapered seats should be tightened an additional 15°.

This PDF file shows how to read the faces of used standard electrode plugs: here

MEGA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104405-spark-plugs/#findComment-1924930
Share on other sites

what happens if you put the plugs in too tight?

I didn't really know how tight to put them in so I tightened them up pretty tight. Don't want them working loose?

Worst case scenario would be that you could strip the thread which would mean removing the head and then using a helicoil I guess :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104405-spark-plugs/#findComment-1925378
Share on other sites

I am runnin iriway7's in my rb20

i just put new ones in the other did about 30k...but there was nothin wrong with em...just thought i would see how the change went.. Dont know the gap...but they seem to be real good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104405-spark-plugs/#findComment-1928025
Share on other sites

If you are going to use a .8 plug then i would use a colder plug say a 7 in ngk, in the others i am not sure....but anything to hot and to close will cause detination.

That is a very bold statement to make. Do you have any evidence/theories etc to back that claim up?

Not having a go its just that a LOT of people run NGKs with a .8 gap and a heat range of six. It would be pretty fair to guess that its the most common plug configuration for an RB powered car that is running above standard boost. ( throw in coilpacks ageing and even standard boost cars run .8mm)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104405-spark-plugs/#findComment-1928505
Share on other sites

From what I've reseached so far the standard gap for copper is .8 and Iridium/Platinum is 1.1 some have shortened the gap to .8 in the I/P plugs due to high boost (12+psi) due to the spark being blown out by that much boost and the shorter gap fixed the problem, so it speaks for itself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104405-spark-plugs/#findComment-1930687
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...