Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anybody know if the Nismo Keys that are gettin around fit a Stagea?

I asked Nengun, and they said they don't think it will cos the Stagea is similar to the ER34, not a definate answer so i thought someone on here would know for sure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/
Share on other sites

I've got a nismo key (blank) that l'm using for my other car, which supposedly fits most skyline's, so l'd be under the assumption it would be fine, as l can't see there being much difference between the stagea key barrell & the R33's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1943407
Share on other sites

Also, make sure whoever cuts it does a good job, as obviously replacing it will be a rather more expensive proposition!!!

I'd probably take it to a keycutter rather than your local hardware store who might cut maybe 2-3 keys a week...

It's not like you've just shelled out for a key that you could have bought directly from the cutter for $2 (or whatever a blank key costs nowadays).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1947889
Share on other sites

Thats exactly what i'll be doing, they should be able to use the number off my original key, and punch it out on the nismo key, i've had that done before.

Much more acurrate than cutting with the grinder when they copy a key.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1949680
Share on other sites

Mines still got the numbers on it ;)

Oh by the way, i emailed Greenline and they have confirmed that the Nismo key, that they and Nengun sell will fit the series 1 stagea, don't know about the series 2 though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1963379
Share on other sites

on the subject of keys, does anyone know how to program the chip in the key hob to enable remote locking?

i cut a blank nissan key to match the original for a spare. the hob of the key has 2 buttons: lock & unlock.

the newly cut key starts the engine fine (i was suprised!) and now I want to know how to program the chip in the key hob so remote locking works.

sometimes there is a bizarre sequence of actions like insert & remove key 5 times in 10 secs, open/shut door etc.

any suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1973013
Share on other sites

My cousin had a key programmed for her N16 Pulsar, can't remember where she bought it, but had it programmed by a Nissan dealer.

It might be an idea to ring your local dealer and see if they can do it, surely the sequence can't be too different between models.

Also, I believe there are some places who cut keys who are also able to do the programming for you, if you still can't manage to find the sequence or process to do it yourself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1973084
Share on other sites

i only got one key with my car, and for some reason it's bent. it still starts the car, but i doubt i could get a key cut for it. some genious has ground off the numbers on the key as well.

to get a key cut fresh, i'm assuming i'll need to take the car to a dealer or locksmith for them to get a number off the ignition barrel?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1973482
Share on other sites

Cool, interesting reading chook! Wonder if it works with aftermarket ECU's, eg PowerFC?

Meh still, when I got my Mongoose alarm hooked up, it disabled the key door lock/unlock from working, good thing I got two alarm keyrings :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1973580
Share on other sites

Thats exactly what i'll be doing, they should be able to use the number off my original key, and punch it out on the nismo key, i've had that done before.

Much more acurrate than cutting with the grinder when they copy a key.

Please note that size 10 keys have been discontinued.

Only some places still have the item in stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-1974442
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Its amazing what u find out about Stageas.

Only today i asked my local M10 for a spare key they said they could cut.

Now i've read this. Hmmmmm! The numbers have been ground off the only key supplied.

This whole Forum is getting like the X Files!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105382-nismo-key/#findComment-2121576
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...