Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

has anybody done this conversion with the rb25det head? if so i need help with it wat is needed for the prep of the block for it to go on and run properly and with the vct how will that work on the 30 block? if any body can help it would be greatly appreciated....thankx in advance please pm me or email me at [email protected]

Have done a couple of these now. There are a couple of places you can run the vct from but I think, ultimately the turbo oil feed will work best.

fark talk about bringing up an old thread, i read back now and go, oh my did i say that? :)

P.S mine's still not running yet :)

lol can't say I noticed, I just posted ;)

hmmm really need to set aside an afternoon one day just to read the conversion thread...might actually learn something....

i reckon the ops feed is better...shorter length of line to run and it doesnt have to cross the front of the motor.....but it probably doesnt matter.

It is a good place to take it but I have had the problem of bleed off causing the oil pressure light to come on at idle...even though the pressure was fine.

Well I'm in the process of building a new engine for my R33. Now the engine that's going into it is an rb30 bottom end with an rb25na head. I'm after a high power engine, round the 500rwkw mark.

What RPM and boost levels are you thinking of reaching???

What RPM and boost levels are you thinking of reaching???

it'll prolly need around the 2bar for that type of power. i've changed cars to a gtr and hence doing the 26/30 conversion. limiter will be set around the ~8000rpm mark

After being a 'no so' proud owner of a VL commodore. I can say this much from what I've seen on Justcommodore's forum. The RB30 doesn't like going much past 6500 RPM. I could only advise getting a new crank, stronger ends/mains and somehow reinforce the bottom end, I don't know the exact term, but I know Mine's tuned RB26dett strengthened the bottom end of the RB26, if you want the RB30 to go past 6 1/2k, then somehow your going to have to do something similar...

big $$$$'s from what I can gather....

After being a 'no so' proud owner of a VL commodore. I can say this much from what I've seen on Justcommodore's forum. The RB30 doesn't like going much past 6500 RPM. I could only advise getting a new crank, stronger ends/mains and somehow reinforce the bottom end, I don't know the exact term, but I know Mine's tuned RB26dett strengthened the bottom end of the RB26, if you want the RB30 to go past 6 1/2k, then somehow your going to have to do something similar...

big $$$$'s from what I can gather....

dont worry dude it's all sorted :D

i'd just get an r33 rb26 and build that. The 26 will be able to get up to 500kw and probably cause you a lot less headaches along the way.

At least then you can have oil squirters as well which are pretty important if you want help maintain reliability in a high power setup.

when pushing the power you want out of a custom 26/30 engine the most important thing you need is someone who has already done it an got big reliable power.

they would know about the problems that can arise in these engines at big power numbers.

good luck

i'd just get an r33 rb26 and build that. The 26 will be able to get up to 500kw and probably cause you a lot less headaches along the way.

At least then you can have oil squirters as well which are pretty important if you want help maintain reliability in a high power setup.

when pushing the power you want out of a custom 26/30 engine the most important thing you need is someone who has already done it an got big reliable power.

they would know about the problems that can arise in these engines at big power numbers.

good luck

again, i've got everything sorted out :)

You dont happen to have squirtes fitted to your block do you? I want to but the machine shop wont do it as they say its too thin.

nope, too much dicking around, and ur not garuanteed it'll work! just ceramic coat the pistons :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...