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Rb30det/tt Gtr Conversion Thread

rev210

By rev210,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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rockabilly Rising Star

rockabilly

Posted
Posted

superb greg, so am i right in thinking if i buy this kit i can just bolt my rb26 4wd sump to my rb30 block?. nothing else needed?. except sump goo

p.s. greg pm me a price delivered to the uk please...

my uk postcode is pr73pd... asap.... :thumbsup:

Public Enemy Community Regular

Public Enemy

Posted
Posted
superb greg, so am i right in thinking if i buy this kit i can just bolt my rb26 4wd sump to my rb30 block?. nothing else needed?. except sump goo

p.s. greg pm me a price delivered to the uk please...

my uk postcode is pr73pd... asap.... >_<

looks like proengines have these on ebay now. go to ebay.com.au and search for RB26 or RB26dett and you'll see it.

  • 3 weeks later...
R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Has anyone got any advice/pictures on how to do the fitting to the block for the rear Turbo Drain? Looking at it today its a bit of a pain. It it very close to a bolt which goes through the sump adaptor ans into the sump. This bolt has to be ground down on one side to get at the fitting properly.. On top of that, if the fitting protrudes too far its going to foul on the axle casting... (hope you are following me here...) :)

The front turbo I am draining to a dash 8 fitting on top of the wing of the sump.. so that's no prob..

Anyone got any info or pics of how they have done this with twin low mounts?

Cheers!

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys,

Has anyone got any advice/pictures on how to do the fitting to the block for the rear Turbo Drain? Looking at it today its a bit of a pain. It it very close to a bolt which goes through the sump adaptor ans into the sump. This bolt has to be ground down on one side to get at the fitting properly.. On top of that, if the fitting protrudes too far its going to foul on the axle casting... (hope you are following me here...) :)

The front turbo I am draining to a dash 8 fitting on top of the wing of the sump.. so that's no prob..

Anyone got any info or pics of how they have done this with twin low mounts?

Cheers!

for mine i just took out the std fitting in the block, went down to pirtek and got a t-piece. I then put that in the block and ran rubber hose from each drain to the t, easy! (hose has heat wrap on it too)

the motors in the car atm, but ill see if i can get some pics

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted
for mine i just took out the std fitting in the block, went down to pirtek and got a t-piece. I then put that in the block and ran rubber hose from each drain to the t, easy! (hose has heat wrap on it too)

the motors in the car atm, but ill see if i can get some pics

Really?? I don't know how you got it in there... we (my mechanic and I) were looking at it and figure we have to get the bolt that holds the sump on in there first, and then you can 'turn' and right angle or t-piece as it will run into the edge of the sump etc.. but heh, obviously you've done it. If you can get a picture of it (although I imagine that would be a pain in the as$.) then I'd love to see it..

Have you run it yet Shane? I was going to run a t-piece but a few people have suggested running them separately "just in case"...

How do those N1's spool up!?

Scooby Veteran

Scooby

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi matt, like shane i have a t piece into the block. there is no way I could get mine off without moving the sump as it has a buffalo horn layout ie the ends on the t piece are quite long, and it would hit the driveshaft flange. it clears the block easily as it sits out a bit so we put the sump on after fitting the t piece. my t piece is fabricated from tubing, i did not use a pirtek piece as i'm not as flashy as shane :)

Edited by Scooby
shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
Really?? I don't know how you got it in there... we (my mechanic and I) were looking at it and figure we have to get the bolt that holds the sump on in there first, and then you can 'turn' and right angle or t-piece as it will run into the edge of the sump etc.. but heh, obviously you've done it. If you can get a picture of it (although I imagine that would be a pain in the as$.) then I'd love to see it..

Have you run it yet Shane? I was going to run a t-piece but a few people have suggested running them separately "just in case"...

How do those N1's spool up!?

engine's only in for clearance purposes, dry sump/exhaust/bonnet. i've just got a new head so theres heaps of work still to do :thumbsup:

just took these 2 pics. thinking back now i did put the t-piece on b4 the sump, and looking at it now, i agree with scooby that theres no way u could get it on/off with the sump on lol

1001093xk4.th.jpg1001094vg9.th.jpg

hi matt, like shane i have a t piece into the block. there is no way I could get mine off without moving the sump as it has a buffalo horn layout ie the ends on the t piece are quite long, and it would hit the driveshaft flange. it clears the block easily as it sits out a bit so we put the sump on after fitting the t piece. my t piece is fabricated from tubing, i did not use a pirtek piece as i'm not as flashy as shane :)

come on scoobs, just call me a ricer :D

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted
engine's only in for clearance purposes, dry sump/exhaust/bonnet. i've just got a new head so theres heaps of work still to do :bunny:

just took these 2 pics. thinking back now i did put the t-piece on b4 the sump, and looking at it now, i agree with scooby that theres no way u could get it on/off with the sump on lol

1001093xk4.th.jpg1001094vg9.th.jpg

come on scoobs, just call me a ricer :D

Haha! Thanks guys. hmm.. you've thrown an extra variable in there now Scooby... I not only have to come up with a solution, but it has to be flashier than ShaneF's!!! :thumbsup:

Cheers for the feedback (and photo especially) - at least it confirmed that the sump had to be off to get the fitting in there... was wondering if there was a secret fitting I didn't know about that was perfect for the job.

I was thinking of taking the existing plug, welding a dash 8 fitting to it and then drilling it through the centre, that way I'd probably be able to fit and remove it with sump on. But once its in there - I doubt I'll really ever need to take it off anyway.. so off I go to Pirtek I think!

Cheers guys!

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted

hmm actually having another look at the photo, your block looks a little different to mine Shane.. Series 1 and 2 perhaps? (I don't know the differences)

Mine has fittings just next to the drain where I need to put a bolt through. And this is the other prob I have, the bolt can't be turned and tightened up with the fitting in place! The head of the bolt has to be ground off - and then the fitting put it... which of course means the sump must already be on...

Excuse the phone photo - but this might show what I am talking about..

(upside down Miss Jane)

post-20408-1180943548_thumb.jpg

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

No idea what them 2 nuts are for mate :thumbsup:

Side note: The hose you'll need for the turbo drain will have to be VERY flexible, ull also need some heatshield stuff caus it comes awefully close to the dumps :bunny:

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
rockabilly Rising Star

rockabilly

Posted
Posted

just an update guys.just fitted my proengines sump adapter. what a fooking top notch bit of kit. superb, every hole lined up a little grinding a per instructions which i have to say are also fooking brilliant. you need one buy this kit..END OF SIMPLE..bernie uk..

  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...

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