Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i did the whole power upgrade before the rest.....

r32 gtst with stock suspension and tyres making 200rwkw and it was a bitch to drive and my lack of experience (over confident) i put the car into the tyre barrier @ eastern creek, what a dick head.

i have since made some suspension changes, decent tyres, and booked into a driving courses and i look back and find that i did all of it back to front.

thats my experience so far.

George

haha, at least you had a crack mate! now lets get your beastie back out on the track. Oran Grand prix circuit day coming up soon. if you have never driven OP GP before you should get in now, as it wont be around for ever.

they were my thoughts - on twisties, a lower powered skyline (eg 200rwkw vs 270ish rwkw) with better suspension and brakes,would be quicker as you can use majority of the power without sliding, losing traction etc.

my "unoficial" time around EC in my old VT LS1 was 2min flat (213rwkw + minor suspension bits) Coners wasnt the best but the straights was where the VT had it.

Im leaning towards upgraded suspension at this present time :)

The best bang for your buck I got was the Peter Finlay driving course. The way I saw the track and my approach to driving changed with time and practice from what I learned from the course. Best money I spent shaving my lap times.

Driver training's the way to go..... Doesnt mater what you've got unless you know how to use it!!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...