Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

imagine throwing one of them engines into an xr6 and making it 4wd turbo.

that'd be a nice little project.

Niiiice idea! Almost an Aussie WRX equivalent (notice I DIDN'T say an Aussie GT-R eqiv'? The idea wouldn't equate to a Group A tourer...or could it?). Any takers?

245kW and 480Nm performance pack and a bonnet air inlet to signal the extra go.

It is available only as an all-wheel-drive, six-speed automatic.

a standard ford xr6t is around the 240kw mark anyway. would it be possible to use the drivetrain to make a standard xr6t 4wd?

if ford released an xr6t 4wd i'd buy one.

Edited by SECUR1TY
LoL

Got fuel bill?!

The Ford territory's are suprisngly good on fuel. 12.8 for the awd or 12.2 for the rwd.

No doubt being the turbo it will use slightly more but driven well it will return the same economy as its n/a version.

This has been proven to be true with the skylines and xrt fords so why should it be any different with the territory. :(

I can see myself building a pretty lame territory.

:( hehe..

So what the fuss about? a turbo tank is not a new thing.. Ever heard of a Nissan Patrol?? what a performance vehicle those are!! :(

Factory claimed 12L/100kms. tongue.gif

hehe.. I love the new average thing they have got going.. so if you do city driving expect about 16L/100km.. country, then maybe down to 10L/100km..

I think we all agree that claimed fuel usage is just that... claimed.. Actual will more often than not be much worse! However, as far as its direct competition goes, it should be a good package =)

Note: I'm NOT a Ford fan at all =D

The R32 RB20DET is claimed to have 10.5L/100km's. I used to achieve that with the stockish rb20det.

Even now after its been tuned, injectors replaced as the others were stuffed, o2 sensor replaced its now getting 10.6L/100km's with the rb30det.

Prior with the buggered injectors it was getting 13-14L/100km's towards the end.

The oldies V8 100series Landcruiser.. Rated at 16L/100km's, that gets 17L/100km's, and my old dear is a lead foot. She loves that toyo v8 growl. :(

I think the average is a fairly good indicator.

The Territory being only slightly heavier than the Falcon it shouldn't be much different, possibly highspeed cruise may due to aero thats about it.

The R32 RB20DET is claimed to have 10.5L/100km's. I used to achieve that with the stockish rb20det.

my R32 on its 2L did 15L/100km city driving.. about 11L/100km highway. Piece of crap 2L :( there was a massive difference between highway and city, and i drove it nearly all city.. as would your average Territory family car.

So I think the country driving averaging out the shitty city fuel economy is misleading..and it should be broken down as per the old days.

Around town my RB25DET will average 12-14L/100k's easily, not sure what it's claimed usage is. That to me seems about right for a car of it's weight and with a regular PSSHT =)

Woops, getting off topic =) Yeah Turbo Territory... Yet another over powered family car =\ I'm gonna need to mod my car up just to keep speed with traffic =\

Edited by ActionDan

I only ever drive mine locally... No open road.

15L per 100 is pretty damn bad.. To the usual 50litres thats around 330-340km's per tank.

Depending on how much I am stuck up it I get no lower than 410-430kays per 50litres. Thats a lot of spirited hills driving.

General driving to work/uni and back up to the oldies I get pretty much spot on 470km's per tank.

The rb20det was pretty much the same.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...