Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

sorry to hijak your thread mate,

how much would an apexi pfc cost? new and second hand?

and a nice fmic, is it worth paying 1k for a good one, or a shitty china cooler for like 300 :(

PFC brand new with hand controller can be found new for under $1000.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=116688

2nd hnd, id say around $700ish if u can find one....

shitty china cooler?? i know of several people using the generic 'hybrid copy' cooler and running 20+ psi on motors with 350rwhp+

these coolers can be found in complete kit with with piping for $400.

Edited by _8OO5TED_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106499-turbo/page/3/#findComment-2241809
Share on other sites

Depends on your luck. Some of the copies from china are of pretty good quality. Not 100% exact to the original thing, but about 90%. So it depends on who manufactures them in china. Best to ask around and see which sellers sell the better ones. Bang for buck. =D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106499-turbo/page/3/#findComment-2242830
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

i am thinking of acutally fitting it myself, says it has step by step instructions. has anyone done it, if so tell us whats it like. oh i have a feeling the my horn might get in the way of the intercooler (post pics when i can). saves me 400 to 500 bucks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106499-turbo/page/3/#findComment-2287078
Share on other sites

I had to move my horn to fit the FMIC, i think thats just the norm.

speaking of the "shitty" chinese parts, has anyone tried one of the rediculously cheap turbos? I wanna know how long they would last. I have seen turbo plus high mount manifold for $900!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106499-turbo/page/3/#findComment-2288001
Share on other sites

There are threads everywhere on them. Probably wont make boost, and youll be up for a rebuild after 0.5kms.

Also wouldnt bother with the manifolds, quite a few people i know have cracked them. Even a mate who forked out to ceramic coat his cracked it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106499-turbo/page/3/#findComment-2288239
Share on other sites

I will have to have a look how the horn was changed and get back to you, i didnt do it my self.

I have seen plenty of posts with people saying these turbos most likely wil be useless, but i havent actuall heard from anyone who has installed one and driven/blown it. Sounds like you have some hard evidence on the shit factor of the manifolds though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106499-turbo/page/3/#findComment-2288475
Share on other sites

do the piping first then line up where the cooler would sit

then put some bricks underneath it and then connect the other side of the piping so make sure it all lines up before you drill holes for the two brackets underneath

to mount it to the top, i made a plate which goes from one bolt to the other and then a little bracket which goes to the bolt which is near the bonnet latch and the plate holds it all in place

with regards to trimming the fan, i found that i didnt need to, the piping which goes inbetween the motor and fan i got it mounted tightly closer to the engine bay and it misses the fan, although i have heard of people letting their piping hit the fan and it will trim itself evenly, saves yourself trimming it unevenly.. but dont quote me there cause mine doesnt hit :cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106499-turbo/page/3/#findComment-2289680
Share on other sites

i found that i had to take my BOV off (getting a new one anyways) and there is no other place i can put it. so just block off the vacume hose till then. what about your horn man, i ended up taking mine off. still havnt finished but i am doing ok.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106499-turbo/page/3/#findComment-2289717
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...