Key In Accessory Position, Battery Dies In 15 Mins

[sl33py]

Recently had a short circuit (sub box connections loosened>touched>blew a head unit connections making it go pop badly on powerup).

Anyway, that's fixed, but the auto-elec said my battery might be gone cos while working on it with the key in the accessory postion and engine off, it died after about 10-15 minutes. They said it should last a coupla hours at least if the stereo isn't on. Annoyingly, they didn't say "you need a new battery" or "we should check the rest of the system for grounding" etc... u know what I mean? Couldn't give me a straight answer

So now I'm worried cos I'm about to get my stereo upgraded and if the car's struggling to hold charge 10 minutes then I want to fix that first. I already jump out of the car and lock it real quick out of paranoia

So I'm gonna check the battery manufacture date. How can I tell how long it is into it's life? I read some batteries last 2 years, some 4.

If the battery isn't long in the tooth, I'm gonna check what the nominal amp being drawn from the battery is while I'm parked. I read it's supposed 50mA (plus whatever the boot light draws if on). Is that correct? Roughly same for all cars? Mine's a '96 R33 GTST.

Also, the auto-elec said I need a "sealed" battery. That's what's in there at the moment. Somewhere else said that's a load of hooey. What does everyone else have? The battery in there at the moment looks a lot smaller than the seat/frame it's sitting in. I think there's meant to be a larger battery there... After checking there's no crazy draw on the system while off (and fixing that if there is), if I need a new battery, what's the biggest/longest lasting one that will fit in an R33 2 dour?

BTW, the audio system isn't anything crazy, so don't think I need a second battery etc. It's a 700W rms 4 channel amp, off a JVC head unit with focal splits and a 10" sub.

[ish]

you answered most of all your own questions there buddy . the autoelec should of told you so you stop guessing your self . if its been in front of an AE then he could tell in 1 second if the battery or Alternator is fragged .... it is!!!, i can tell by what your saying ... replace it and forget about it hassling you ......i went the biggest fatest exide that would fit and repaced terminals with contact luggs ... not a hicup now !!!

mine was the same, came with jap battery .... there ok until you slowly drain the old one of power somehow (bootlight stereo etc) and they seem to cross a cell making it a 12 volt battery still but no staying power .....

[**JaR**]

lol jap batteries are crap thats all there is to it. if you wanna run subs n all that shit off your car with a jap battery and dont expect it to go flat after having it on accessorices for extended periods of time.... your dreamin

[sl33py]

ishh: The auto electrician I dealt with when picking up the car was some mongrel obviously in a big rush (for *#& knows what reason, it wasn't lunch or the end of the day), and he barely spoke a word of english, hence me walking away without a clear answer simply cos I couldn't understand him and noone else was around.

JaR: Who said anything about a jap battery? From memory I don't think it is jap. And I said I jump out of the car real quick... obviously I'm NOT sitting in the car park with the shit running and the engine off.

Thanks so much for the genuine non-sarcastic help...

[MANWHORE]

1. most cars have batteries that are really old. Why not replace it if it's 5 years old?

2. batteries are cheap. head to our group buy section and pay 140 for the sealed battery from wrxhoon and be done with it. You won't have to worry about battery again.

3. stop stressing, it's only a battery. it's only 140.

[sl33py]

.... where'd 5 years come from? nevermind.. Getting a new stereo setup and it's sorted. Optima D34