Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If anyone lives in melbourne then they would've seen the amount of rain that was pissing down this afternoon, with puddles in some streets as deep as 1/2 a metre :( , this is what ill be worrying about when i get my skyline lol.

hehe might be selling my manual s2 r33 end of year.. Basically stock, with a few minor mods here and there.. But still on stock boost.. Car is in perfect condition.. hmm when you thinkin of buying yours?? Might sell mine say nov or dec sometime.. But still thinking about it, not yet sure at this stage..

Well i might get it off my brother's friend in the next few months, but otherwise yeah sometime between mid this year towards the end.

Just make sure u get some deacent tyres. My 33 came with some crappy Woosong (or something like that) 205 tyres that had stuff all grip, 2nd gearies in the dry no worries...... & 3rd in the wet. I went to go around a corner 1 day in 3rd doing less than 1500 revs where it's got next to no power & the thing still let go on me big time. Since I put my fat 275 yokahamas on the rear I have next to no trouble with wet weather grip.

If your worried, get a decent set of hoops, u don't have to necessarily upgrade the width, just the quality. Stuff getting an auto

I agree, it can be a handful in the wet. When I first got my car it came with stock wheels and I let my friend drive it. He owns a type R so he's used to NA response and not turbo boost so when I let him drive it, being wet at the time he fishtailed and nearly clipped the kerb on a straight road. I crapped my pants, I'm sure he did too. All it had was an exhaust and filter at the time

The stock tyres and rims are now on my dad's 626 lol and two weeks later i got bigger and wider wheels

Edited by Gengis

Nothing more scarey than FWD auto in the wet. Like has been said before, you going up a hill or something, IT decides its time to drop back, suddenly its spinning.

When I got my GTR, I was so so scared... as soon as I turned the key, I forgot why I was scared, its just a normal car. Its doesn't have 200+rwkws at idle! You give it light load and drive it gentle, your 626 will beat it easy. They are monsters that come onto boost for no reason!

Infact, if you start thinking you'll be scared, you'll end up disappointed... they aren't that fast. If you hit a corner at 100, you'll die, but thats the same for any car. These ones just get up to and back down from speed quicker.

i went from driving a 1990 auto N/A 2.2ltr TX5 (manual license) for 2 years, to a manual S2 R33 GTS-T, and had no problems. hadn't really touched a manual at all in that 2 year period...literally MAYBE one time for a short drive, but i picked it up again pretty quickly (didnt stall or bunnyhop etc at all on the first drive, which was an hour drive through the city etc on the way home from compliance) then the next week or so was just fine tuning gear changes etc....

but as others have said, they aren't THAT powerful in stock form...sure you can kill yourself, but you'll have to work at it...lol

do not buy an auto skyline. you will regret it

Go a manual dude, as said... You'll regret it later if you go an auto. As with hitting boost in the wet... Have fun with it!! Familiarise yourself with the car, familiarise yourself with other manual cars. All it takes is practice, and we all know, practice makes perfect.

Be grateful you have a car that hits boost :D - Slippery When... EVER!! - :D

Edited by Savage Bliss

No boost is determined by both.

The higher the rpm the harder it becomes to control the boost level.

Low rpm there is little exhaust flow to spin up the turbo so there will be little boost no matter how much throttle input there is.

Stock boost they feel like N/A like so nothing to worry about. :geek:

So boost is determined by the amount of throttle your foot puts down, not how many revs?? Can someone explain how it works in more detail. My car arrives this month so would love to know before i hit a telegraph pole! :rolleyes:

don't stress mate. i didnt understand it all fully before i drove my car...but if you're sensible, and dont drive like an idiot as soon as you get in, you'll be fine.

as mentioned, stock they're not slow...but they're hardly animals waiting to slap a pole

I believe the word for it is tractable. :happy:

I called my insurance company quite some time ago to question cover should my other half drive the car on her L's.

The young bloke on the other end said.... 'No, you shouldn't let her drive as those cars are too dangerous for an L plater'

I said.. 'its relatively stock, it doesn't get going unless you really get stuck up it with a few rev's, even then its hardly an animal'

he said... 'look mate, i've driven those things and they are damn quick, i know'

I shut up at this point thinking what a........ yer... :rolleyes:

He had no idea.

Its wasn't the law i was concerned about it was their policy.

Being a 'performance' car where under 25's are not allowed to drive the car I was concerned that she would not be covered on her L's.

My other half is 27, yes she was slack getting her license but did get 100% in the test when she went for it. :rolleyes:

So as she is over 25 she is covered to drive the car, L's or not. :happy:

Stock boost they feel like N/A like so nothing to worry about. :laugh:

only because u used to it :happy:

still remeber the first time i take a ride in a stock ca18det auto S13 with 3 people in car

once the turbo kick in, i felt: O...!! this is SO quick!!!!

not anymore now :rolleyes:

In regards to the losing control of the skyline I was more or so referring to this street during peak hour where you need to merge into the main road from a standstill on a hill (Cnr Highbury and Springvale road). The main road is 80 km/h so you need to be quick to merge in and there’s always impatient driver’s behind you :laugh:

I’ve nearly lost control once in my 626 in the wet, with massive under steer when trying to merge fast, I reckon if I had been in the skyline I would of done a complete 180. lol

yeah don't worry about stalling mate, i've thought a couple of times i had but it comes back from the dead if your quick back on the clutch. I couldn't belive it first time. As for how hard they are to drive, simple.

  • 2 years later...
Automatic gearboxes are the devil.

+1! I know this thread is dead, but for anyone in future interested. I have first hand experience with this. My R33 gtst auto made 165kw at the wheels. In a straight line she was awesome!

One day one a 90' left turn, sun totally blocking my vision, misjudged the corner, she decides to gear down and hit full boost, 13 psi. I sh#t myself and she goes sideways. I miss 3 poles by a miracle of GOD and bury it in the sand 50 metres from the corner on the other side of the road.

Rear diff stuffed, hicas stuffed, left rear quarter stuffed amongst other things. Bottom line, high powered auto on bends = bad news for inexperienced driver. BE CAREFUL GUYS, PLEASE!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...