Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, when buying an R33 skyline, would it be any better getting it from an import car yard or just go priv?

Car yards generally charge must higher. Forget about the warranty or whatever shit. Most of the warranties don't cover u for nuthing. Only thing good about dealers is you have a wider choice when you go to the car yard.

thinking about this one myself at the moment. I think im going to budget for car yard prices, but buy privately and use the difference to fix up any problems that might occur, or anything that i might need. e.g. alarm, pod, oils/belts etc. If the spare dollars doesnt end up being necessary, I think i'll probably just dump the difference on my loan.

depends how good you can negotiate.

If you can negotiate, then go with someone who can etc, pick off all the little problems with the car etc etc, like scratches, dints etc, basically anything you can to drag the price down etc. I've found with car yard dealers there not to bad in knocking a few hundred off the price etc if you can deal with em.

Private sales are very easy to knock down most of the time, because everyone advertises higher than they think theyll get.

For example, my R33 was advertised for 20K, bought it for 16.5K because it needed new front tires and a 100 thousand km service.

If you get the car RAC checked and its all ok, there's no reason why you shouldnt buy privately!

I managed to get my R33 for 20K from a car yard when they were advertising it as 25K. I'd seen it in the weekend newspaper for 20K, but were selling during the week for 25K. So when I went there on a Monday I offered them the weekend price. They just about made their money back with stuff like paint protection, rust proofing, mystery rattle insurace etc. :tongue:

Another car yard related question, if the car is around about 16000 mark... how easy is it to drop it down to 15 or even 14,500??

Can someone tell me some true stories when dealing with car yard sales men?

If u have the cash ready/finances approved you are in a better situation to negotiate. I have bought my 2 imports from dealers over the years and my experiences have been good. You need to find a dealer who is honest and knows what they are talking about instead of one that just wants to do the hard sell.

Also ask them how long the car has been on the floor. Usually they want to move them within a couple of months - as the car nears that age you can generally bargin a better price - although with new cars it is easier.

If you buy privately make sure you get a mechanical inspection done by somebody you trust and not just the RWC.

If you buy privately make sure you get a mechanical inspection done by somebody you trust and not just the RWC.

make sure u get an inspection if you buy from a dealer also!

we got a stack of things fixed by the dealer on our car that would have cost us money, but instead were fixed for free

In my oppinion private sales are better. Just need to know what to look for when buying your car so you dont get ripped off. My mate bough his Series2 GTST from a caryard which was advertised at XXX amount of km's. Once when removing the glovebox he found some old Japanese papers sitting behind which ended up being service receipts in Japan with much higher km's indicated than what he had on the car.

Ive got a family friend who is a mechanic so I might and try him to do it. With priv and dealer cars, can I request to take the car during the week or weekend into the workshop to get it checked??

I know that if the guy selling the car refuses then something is wrong with it...so I can walk away.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...