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Car Stalling


HKS-R33
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Ive just put a Power FC on an R33 Gtst along with a bigger turbo. Now since i finished putting the turbo and power fc in, when i rev the car in neutral it will either stall or the revs will start fluxuating. So when im pulling up to a set of light if i slow the car right down then put the clutch in its ok, but if i put it in while the revs are still up it will either stall or the revs will fluxuate.

We tuned it on the dyno like this but my tuner said it could be because i didnt have my factory BOV plumbed in. So i plumbed it back up to the intake and it didnt fix the problem at all. The only pipe i havent connected up on the BOV is this little thin one i think its called a 'hot pipe' or something.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Mike.

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ensure the bov is connected as it was in the factory setup

without it, it will most likely stall each time.

if its still screwed and your idle sucks you can perform a factory reset to sort out the idle, but you will loose your tune if you do that so get someone to copy it for you before it gets done. but the bov will certainly make it still, incorrect or misconfigured

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you said you fitted a bigger turbo , did you also fit a new dump pipe? if so is the o2 sensor in the new pipe, it may also be damaged or blocked, even not plugged in. check all that also.

I had a similar issue but with everything stock - replaced the o2 sensor and hey bingo , no more stalling.

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stock bov has 2 things attached to it.

1.) vacuum line (connects to the little nipple on top of the bov). this line can be taken from many places.. try fuel pressure regulator line or one of many other vacuum lines near the plenum.

2.) the PLUMBACK hose.. it is the largish hose that goes from the front of the bov back to the air intake pipe.

you can see the plumback hose in this pic..

DSCF09671.jpg

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Bought my car with a TurboSmart atmo BOV on it. Did the same thing, but only if I pulled up hard with the clutch slammed in and the brake on. Bought a used standard BOV, stuck it on, never looked back =-]

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hey guys thanks for the replies, i tried the standard computer last night and it still didnt fix it at all. So it must be something that has been tampered with since the conversion. All I can think of is the o2 sensor and the BOV. Ive plumbed in the BOV but i havent checked the o2sensor.

Is there any way of checking to see if it is working correctly?

I also had to replace the dump pipe so im gonna have a go at stuffing around with the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor seems to be pretty close to the back of the turbo ATM rather than down a little. Could this be a problem?

Thanks for all the replies, Mike.

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the 02 sensor will have nothing to do with your stalling. its used for closed loop feedback. if you still dont believe me go and unplug and drive around, nothing will change. it will simply waste a bit of fuel

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the 02 sensor will have nothing to do with your stalling. its used for closed loop feedback. if you still dont believe me go and unplug and drive around, nothing will change. it will simply waste a bit of fuel

True that, i drove around knowingly for 30000 kms with a stuffed o2 sensor made no diff when i replaced it!

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naa mate im only using 1 standard BOV. The standard BOV doesn't have an adjustment screw does it?

I changed the AAC valve last night and it made no difference at all.

Thanks, Mike.

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OK my R32 did that and i went and picked up a HKS EIS or something like that witch is an eletronic idle stabilisor (bad spelling) and that connects to the ecu and hey presto! no more stalling with a HKS SSQ BOV

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