Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a single 12" sub in my R33 and I face it towards the end of the car.... Sounds good! I've had a sub pointed into the car in my R31 when i could fold the seats down and almost sit it inside the cabin, but there's not as much bass as being faced the other way and as an enclosed unit (boot)

Just looking at my R32 it seems logical to mount a sub in a sealed box through the plate behind the back seat.(see my posts #18 &

#22 " Where's the bass? " this forum). I've run this idea past a few installers and most have recommended something else for one reason or another. One guy quoted a couple of articles on bass loading in CSA magazine. I found these articles (issues #5 & #9) and I must say that in these tests the forward facing mounting position had the lowest SPL and very uneven frequency response. The main difference between my idea and their setup is that my cabin will be sealed from the boot and their's fires through an open ski-port.

Gester,

The answer to your question is "none of the above"

Try standing in the middle of a room (of any given size) and speak at a normal level. Now go to a corner, face the wall and repeat...

This is why manufacturers of Hi-Fi speakers ALWAYS recommend positioning at least 40-50cm from a side wall - The bass response would lift considerably and "muddy" the soundstage. In a car where you WANT lift face the driver toward the rearmost corner in your boot. You won't win any fashion contests doing this, but you will optimize bass response using the natural acoustics of your car.

Let me know if it makes a difference !

  • 2 weeks later...

wow... almost looks like there is some boot space left there with that setup! :P

My 12" sub should be ariving any day now.. Will be interesting to see what i can do as well. I don't want to lose too much boot, but i know that i will in one way or another.

With bass, low frequencies are a lot more omni directional than higher frequencies, therefore staging is not as important in general in a sub. If you think about it, higher frequencies have less area and therefore bounce around more and are affected more by where it is positioned - so its important to get that part right.

That is why most home theatre applications they generally say you can position the sub most of time where it fits when there is all these theories of where you should be positioning all your other speakers.

I think where you position the sub is not as important as the enclosure (where it develops most of its sound) and the mounting itself (not loose). The key is to make sure there is no non-harmonic vibration or "buzzing" developed. I wonder whether adding sound insulation into the wells and other "open" spaces in there is going to help aswell so less sound can escape?

There is probably a massive art to getting it all perfectly right and requires many complex tools that us peeps probably don't have access to. I'd say unless you do something really stupid its going to sound pretty good - and bass in the end is only part of the equation (for me anyway!)

btw: I don't think that side setup would be that optimal, as really there is really little room for proper resonation behind the speaker, other than the side wells (which are pretty small really and not that effectively shaped)... however you would have good resonation from the front of the speaker, as there is no box filling the rest of the boot. I still think the former is more important though.

I'd say while more practical, you would be sacrificing some volume and quality there.

Originally posted by predator666

With bass, low frequencies are a lot more omni directional than higher frequencies, therefore staging is not as important in general in a sub. If you think about it, higher frequencies have less area and therefore bounce around more and are affected more by where it is positioned - so its important to get that part right.  

That is why most home theatre applications they generally say you can position the sub most of time where it fits when there is all these theories of where you should be positioning all your other speakers.  

you are partly right predator.

in terms of a room, with a large air volume and semi-infinite space, the location of a sub is not "as essential". However, within a car, the primary governance in terms of the effectiveness of bass drivers is the relationship between active and passive wave cancellation.

wavelengths for bass travel are typically in the order of 3m. as governed by c=f x lambda (assuming c=3.3, and f=80 Hz mean). for the best amplitude response, the listener should be positioned at the anti-node of the source. in terms of a woofer driver, this amounts to a multiple of the wavelength.

In short, the MOST CONSISTENT way of acheiving this is to direct the driver toards the back f the trunk. this allows reflecion of the sound wave off rear boot surface (approximately 0.5m) and then travel from the boot to the front of the vehicle cabin (about 2.5m, depending on the car).

this method typically produces best resullts for single driver setups in sedan sized vehicles in terms of SPL. some experimentation may be necessary to determine whether the sound is better when the driver is facced into the LH or RH corner or directly backwards.

  • 3 weeks later...

Gester I'm still undecided as to whether to put the sub behind the seat or in the wheelwell. I don't see it being too difficult to go behind the seat once you've relocated the battery though. I'm still toying with the idea of facing it foward through the arm rest hole but if I do this I can only fit one 10". If i face it backwards I can fit 2 x 12"s easily.

Has anyone managed to put the Sub in the compartment with the battery?

Yep, done it. Single 10" drivers side, facing into the boot, and currently working on the second once I have relocated the battery. 12"s would fit no problem, provided they arent going to be too deep. You can always bring the false wall forward to compensate though, just means less boot space (tis why I have 10") All I need to do now if buy decent 10"s rather than the Sony's I was given :):D

I got mine like the pic above with the driver facing the left suspension tower roughly. Its a solobaric L7 square so the box is absolutely small and the sound is mad for such a small driver in such a miniscule box. also get some brown bread deadener and deaden the boot lid and anywhere else you can fit some if there is any left exspecially the boot floor.

perfect

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...