Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a single 12" sub in my R33 and I face it towards the end of the car.... Sounds good! I've had a sub pointed into the car in my R31 when i could fold the seats down and almost sit it inside the cabin, but there's not as much bass as being faced the other way and as an enclosed unit (boot)

Just looking at my R32 it seems logical to mount a sub in a sealed box through the plate behind the back seat.(see my posts #18 &

#22 " Where's the bass? " this forum). I've run this idea past a few installers and most have recommended something else for one reason or another. One guy quoted a couple of articles on bass loading in CSA magazine. I found these articles (issues #5 & #9) and I must say that in these tests the forward facing mounting position had the lowest SPL and very uneven frequency response. The main difference between my idea and their setup is that my cabin will be sealed from the boot and their's fires through an open ski-port.

Gester,

The answer to your question is "none of the above"

Try standing in the middle of a room (of any given size) and speak at a normal level. Now go to a corner, face the wall and repeat...

This is why manufacturers of Hi-Fi speakers ALWAYS recommend positioning at least 40-50cm from a side wall - The bass response would lift considerably and "muddy" the soundstage. In a car where you WANT lift face the driver toward the rearmost corner in your boot. You won't win any fashion contests doing this, but you will optimize bass response using the natural acoustics of your car.

Let me know if it makes a difference !

  • 2 weeks later...

wow... almost looks like there is some boot space left there with that setup! :P

My 12" sub should be ariving any day now.. Will be interesting to see what i can do as well. I don't want to lose too much boot, but i know that i will in one way or another.

With bass, low frequencies are a lot more omni directional than higher frequencies, therefore staging is not as important in general in a sub. If you think about it, higher frequencies have less area and therefore bounce around more and are affected more by where it is positioned - so its important to get that part right.

That is why most home theatre applications they generally say you can position the sub most of time where it fits when there is all these theories of where you should be positioning all your other speakers.

I think where you position the sub is not as important as the enclosure (where it develops most of its sound) and the mounting itself (not loose). The key is to make sure there is no non-harmonic vibration or "buzzing" developed. I wonder whether adding sound insulation into the wells and other "open" spaces in there is going to help aswell so less sound can escape?

There is probably a massive art to getting it all perfectly right and requires many complex tools that us peeps probably don't have access to. I'd say unless you do something really stupid its going to sound pretty good - and bass in the end is only part of the equation (for me anyway!)

btw: I don't think that side setup would be that optimal, as really there is really little room for proper resonation behind the speaker, other than the side wells (which are pretty small really and not that effectively shaped)... however you would have good resonation from the front of the speaker, as there is no box filling the rest of the boot. I still think the former is more important though.

I'd say while more practical, you would be sacrificing some volume and quality there.

Originally posted by predator666

With bass, low frequencies are a lot more omni directional than higher frequencies, therefore staging is not as important in general in a sub. If you think about it, higher frequencies have less area and therefore bounce around more and are affected more by where it is positioned - so its important to get that part right.  

That is why most home theatre applications they generally say you can position the sub most of time where it fits when there is all these theories of where you should be positioning all your other speakers.  

you are partly right predator.

in terms of a room, with a large air volume and semi-infinite space, the location of a sub is not "as essential". However, within a car, the primary governance in terms of the effectiveness of bass drivers is the relationship between active and passive wave cancellation.

wavelengths for bass travel are typically in the order of 3m. as governed by c=f x lambda (assuming c=3.3, and f=80 Hz mean). for the best amplitude response, the listener should be positioned at the anti-node of the source. in terms of a woofer driver, this amounts to a multiple of the wavelength.

In short, the MOST CONSISTENT way of acheiving this is to direct the driver toards the back f the trunk. this allows reflecion of the sound wave off rear boot surface (approximately 0.5m) and then travel from the boot to the front of the vehicle cabin (about 2.5m, depending on the car).

this method typically produces best resullts for single driver setups in sedan sized vehicles in terms of SPL. some experimentation may be necessary to determine whether the sound is better when the driver is facced into the LH or RH corner or directly backwards.

  • 3 weeks later...

Gester I'm still undecided as to whether to put the sub behind the seat or in the wheelwell. I don't see it being too difficult to go behind the seat once you've relocated the battery though. I'm still toying with the idea of facing it foward through the arm rest hole but if I do this I can only fit one 10". If i face it backwards I can fit 2 x 12"s easily.

Has anyone managed to put the Sub in the compartment with the battery?

Yep, done it. Single 10" drivers side, facing into the boot, and currently working on the second once I have relocated the battery. 12"s would fit no problem, provided they arent going to be too deep. You can always bring the false wall forward to compensate though, just means less boot space (tis why I have 10") All I need to do now if buy decent 10"s rather than the Sony's I was given :):D

I got mine like the pic above with the driver facing the left suspension tower roughly. Its a solobaric L7 square so the box is absolutely small and the sound is mad for such a small driver in such a miniscule box. also get some brown bread deadener and deaden the boot lid and anywhere else you can fit some if there is any left exspecially the boot floor.

perfect

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...