Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive rung a few places so far, justjap, uas, and nissan. nissan want 500+ for a standard rb25det oil pump and justjap and uas dont stock the standard pumps.

if worse comes to worse ill be getting an n1 pump from justjap for 499 but does anyone know anywhere else that would have standard rb25det oil pumps?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108412-where-do-i-go-to-get-an-oil-pump/
Share on other sites

Yeah go new, heres a link to the club discount guy

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ndpost&p=974243

Powerplay did a oem airbox for a good price for me ages ago, give them a try maybe?

Steve: Troy at Nissan has left, and the new guys are useless

SECURITY: I really think you need to be sure about what you are dealing with before you go buying a new oil pump unless you are certain that your current pump has a problem, especially since you are obviously doing this on a shoestring budget.

Lift the engine out, and strip and reassemble it properly - without using assembly lube on the bores!

we're going to pull the oil pump off and have a look at it, if it seems ok then we're going to look at the clearances of the rod bearings.

but we put in new standard bearings, and the old bearings were standard so the only thing left would be the oil pump.

whats happening is its running, except ive got what sounds like a lifter noise. just a clicking in the head, but that could be caused by the thinner oil and a dodgy oil pump.

oil pressure rises to 30+ psi when its at around 3000rpm, so its got me stumped!

it was done right, just because we didnt have a workshop doesnt mean it was done wrong. and to the best of my knowledge the oil pump was fine so we didnt think of changing it.

it isnt a big problem. its either the big ends or oil pump. ill be changing both while the sump is off anyway. bearings cost me $60 so it isnt a big deal to change them to be on the safe side. im buying an n1 oil pump this thursday so it'll all be fixed over the weekend.

it was done right, just because we didnt have a workshop doesnt mean it was done wrong. and to the best of my knowledge the oil pump was fine so we didnt think of changing it.

it isnt a big problem. its either the big ends or oil pump. ill be changing both while the sump is off anyway. bearings cost me $60 so it isnt a big deal to change them to be on the safe side. im buying an n1 oil pump this thursday so it'll all be fixed over the weekend.

Mate you don't understand its got nothing to do with having a workshop. Take the engine out of the car, take the crank out and have it checked by someone that knows and has the tools to do it .You say you checked the bearing clearances , how can you do it on the car ? By using new bearings again its not going to make any difference if they are the same size as before .

You must have done something wrong otherwise she would be fine. If i was you i would check the piston to bore clearance too , it has nothing to do with oil pressure but it may have something to do with the clicking sound ( piston slap if the clearance is to big ) . You should also service the cil head while you are at it, saves you having to pull it off in the very near future .

im just going to leave it to my brother in law. hes confident he knows what the problem is, its too much of a damn headache for me.

thanks wrxhoon, hope you dont mind if i pm you another time if ive got any problems mate. cheers.

security I understand you are trying to do this cheap but I guess the point is you've done a commodore style rebuild on a skyline :D

I'm sure you want car that you can take back to the strip and trhash when you are finished, for god sake don't cut corners and end up with a problem a third time.

Take the motor out

Get the bottom end cleaned and tested and honed properly

Deck the block

Then have the bearing, piston and ring clearances checked.

Buy a new oil pump.

Get the crank measured for straightness.

Get it all balanced.

Get new rod bolts.

Get the right size bearings.

Check the ring end gaps to make sure they are right.

Make sure you have the right grade pistons for your current piston clearances.

Clean the bottom end out properly instead of leaving the shavings from the honing floating around in the block.

Shave the head

Get the head pressure tested

Yes I would know I've done it cheap and wrong myself.

Or failing that do what I did and install a second hand motor. The fact is you did hge damage with that melted piston but never cleaned the block out....

Good luck with it all ;)

I'm with Duncan & WRXHOON. Take it out and do it properly or you're pissing money into the wind. It's just going to break the way you've built it now there's been too many corners cut. You CANNOT build an engine properly, especially a high performance once, without taking it out of the car.

If you're not going to listen to the answers don't bother asking the questions, we're only going to tell you "I told you so" afterwards.

Good luck getting it sorted anyhow but for your own sake please take the engine out and build it properly.

Edited by d0p3y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...