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Guys, you have to actually be an AGENT of the church in some fashion to qualify legally for oem church prices/software .... ie. you actually do work for the church on your PC. They are pretty particular about qualifying for it.

hey Abe, have MS actually hardened up the legal oem rules, or are MSY pulling our chains to get us to buy more gear? You used to be able to legally buy oem software if you bought a decent piece of hardware (like a HDD or mobo), but now MSY claim you have to buy a HDD, mobo AND ram to be able to buy oem software.

I remember tons of mobs on Ebay used to sell oem software and ship it with a HDD cable or busted floppy drive, and claim they were satisfying oem requirements - but was pretty sure this was never legal.

hey Abe, have MS actually hardened up the legal oem rules, or are MSY pulling our chains to get us to buy more gear? You used to be able to legally buy oem software if you bought a decent piece of hardware (like a HDD or mobo), but now MSY claim you have to buy a HDD, mobo AND ram to be able to buy oem software.

I remember tons of mobs on Ebay used to sell oem software and ship it with a HDD cable or busted floppy drive, and claim they were satisfying oem requirements - but was pretty sure this was never legal.

Years ago you could just buy a keyboard or whatever and also buy a copy of XP OEM, then they changed it to something critical - ie, CPU, Hard Drive, etc. In recent years since just before vista's release they changed it to a whole package, so at my work we can only sell it with a new system or laptop, or we install it for you. But for some certain customers we can make some form of deal - some forum members have already seen me about the deals.

MSY imports all/most of there stock from China (grey imports), so you dont get any Australian warranty, but with software it doesn't matter, all you need is the CD Key. As the stock comes from China, they don't have to conform to the licensing of windows as much as we do, as our's is Australian stock.

Also be VERY careful of the ebay jobs, we have seen quite a few customers come in with copies of XP OEM they bought off of ebay - High Quality Fakes, it cost then about $120....then they came to us and it cost them about another $200 (cost of XP oem & install fee).

Edited by Aberax
  • 2 weeks later...

Reformatted my EEE on Thursday and installed the new version of Fedora Linux (11)

Works very nicely. I have encrypted filesystem which requires a password before the OS can boot, graphical bootsequence (Plymouth with the spinfinity theme) and I have compiz fusion enabled with the multiwallpaper glcube rotator and the expo mirror plugin, also with emerald as the window manager, window transparencies, 'wobble' effects and other eye candy

have also setup wvdial to use my phone (via bluetooth) as a nextG modem which is quite nifty.... wireless lan, webcam, card reader, pretty much every piece of hardware works admirably so far

heres a demo of the expo plugin ;

Another compiz demo (showing off the zoom a bit) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9s1nJWL3rs4

and another one :

Love it. and it runs on the little eee 901 admirably

-D

Does anyone know if you can use an iPhone as a modem on a pc?

My Internet is throttled because of download limit but I have heaps of data with optus on my iPhone.

Thanks in advance.

u sure can, i use mine as a modem for my eee pc when my dsl goes down.

need to jb it, and there are a few applications that u can use to share the internard from the iphone either by usb cable, or using the iphone as a wifi router

hit whorlpool forums for moar info

In 4 days Apple is releasing OS 3 for the iPhone, and it includes internet tethering!!!

Hit my download limit again on the home internet, so back to dialup speed again :(

Because my physical address cannot get ADSL, Im forced to use wireless and I have the biggest plan I could find which is 10GB a month on Telstra NextG, but I keep hitting it. Hopefully they make plans with bigger download limits soon. Im happy with the speed of it, when using speedtest.net I can get low 80's ping, with around 3Mbps download speed but yeah just wish I could have more downloads.

The phone exchange Im connected to has just had ADSL2+ made availible, but I have 6500-7000m line length if not running through the pair gains unit....

  • 2 weeks later...

ok about time a fellow geek posted up a finding :laugh:

for those that don't know you can turn your windows ce based GPS into a fully fledged OS (sort of as i read it still playing)

ok here is original HP screen load up

post-13315-1245675098_thumb.jpg

then it proceeded to install the OS which took less than 5 mins on a dual core ARM11 cpu 600mhz

post-13315-1245675187_thumb.jpg

then this was the initial load screen just before glory

post-13315-1245675290_thumb.jpg

post-13315-1245675374_thumb.jpg

>>Mio Pocket 3.0<<

now i just have to figure out a few of the tools that i want like bluetooth and possibly GPS settings

yeah man :laugh: took alot of reading through the different threads

oh and its installed on the SD so if i get sick of it or something doesnt work pull out SD and soft reboot and valla back to oasis OS

thats pretty cool

i hacked my dads tomtom 910 go to add extra maps and unlock the bonus features (such as john cleese giving directions) only to find it was a strongarm200mhz with a 20gb hdd and a 6" touchscreen. Would be awesome to have a spare one to chuck linux on and see what I can do with it >:P

-D

no Luke legit its free :laugh:

What is MioPocket?

MioPocket is an unlock kit--an installable package of programs, scripts, registry files and skins--to unlock Mio-brand GPS devices (plus some other brands) and allow them to be used as PDAs (i.e. personal, handheld computers). MioPocket is the most-packed and most-fully-featured unlock for GPS devices available and is free and legal to use, as it consists 100% of freely-distributable content. What MioPocket is not is a replacement for MioMap or any other OEM navigation software. It is just a different environment from which one may launch such software.

Reformatted my EEE on Thursday and installed the new version of Fedora Linux (11)

After spending 2 weeks with this awesome distro, I can safely say I won't be switching back to slackware unless I have to recompile loads of c/c++ onto a non x86 platform

Spend around 6 hours last night reading thru a bunch of technical documentation regarding the ASUS U3100 usb digital tv dongle. Works fine under windows but I want it to work under fedora. Asus released their own driver and application but it was for ubuntu. After many glasses of coke and many experiments, I finally got the bugger working under F11. Turns out it was actually quite easy. but totally undocumented and the documentation I was reading from was up to 2 years old - such is live in the open source world.

That said, the TV software under linux is pretty lightweight. Its around 5 megs in total and does HD streams without maxxing out the cpu.

And this afternoon I installed VICE 64 (a commodore emulator) and managed to get it working fullscreen with a proper c64 joystick and stelladaptor.... just like the real deal :P

Spent the last hour playing wiz of wor. Fun stuff :D now I'm onto the last ninja.

Funny thing is, this eee has grossly exceeded its specs on paper... The eee connects wirelessly to the mobile phone for broadband, wirelessly via 802.11n for local LAN, DVB-T for Digital Tele and bluetooth to connect to the mouse and mobile phone. thats 4 independant wireless technologies. Bluetooth, 802.11n, DVB-T, NextG. Better not use it too much I'm guessing, I might get nut cancer.

Oh and incidentally the whole lot works seamlessly under compiz too..... I have an openGL rotating cube and it displays the c64 emu on one face, the digital tv, anotherone running totem which is playing an avi, another which is running a command prompt dumping a kernel recompile, and its all being mirrored on an openGL surface... all this on intel 950gfx and dualcore atom 1.6ghz (eee 901). Pretty damn good for a $550 laptop IMHO....

Technology makes the coochie go 'woo woo'

-D

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    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
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