Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What did you end up doing for lifters?

I now have a spare s/h set here, will pull them out and give them a good clean.

Also.. Can you take note if there's ANY difference in before/after oil pressure. Obviously only when warm, allthough it may also affect cold but my guage max's out on cold start up anyway. :D

Cubes

I ended up scoring a second hand head at a decent price so I am taxing the head for the lifters - cheapest option is to use standard second hand ones for now as im not changing the cams to go for solids.

My engine max's out on oil pressure when cold too. So yeah when i get it all running again I will post the oil pressure results.

The biggest thing for me will be the amount of oil being pushed out of the engine - get tooo much oil in the top end.

Going to be a big mission.

What did you end up doing for lifters?

I now have a spare s/h set here, will pull them out and give them a good clean.

Also.. Can you take note if there's ANY difference in before/after oil pressure. Obviously only when warm, allthough it may also affect cold but my guage max's out on cold start up anyway. :D

Edited by Guilt-Toy

Howdy SK,

Mate, you really need to fire up Excel one day....you don't know what you're missing out on!! :D

As the formatting was all cocked up on your original post, I decided to pop it all in a nice, neat Excel table for you. Just have a quick double check to make sure all of the values I entered are correct.

Hope this is useful (god knows, what you do for us sure is!).

Cheers,

Mike

Nissan_RB_Cylinder_Head_Oil_Restrictor_Chart.zip

my only worry is blocking off the rear restictor on my rb20 eventho im using a n1 pump.

i can see using a 1.5mm restrictor in the front but wouldnt it be better to run another 1.5mm restrictor in the rear feed.

im just trying to understand the how and why behind this as my motor isnt as worked as sk stated it should be in that chart...

my only worry is blocking off the rear restictor on my rb20 eventho im using a n1 pump.

i can see using a 1.5mm restrictor in the front but wouldnt it be better to run another 1.5mm restrictor in the rear feed.

im just trying to understand the how and why behind this as my motor isnt as worked as sk stated it should be in that chart...

What i noticed with Sydneykids posts is that when he says something he is allways right wether its a generalisation or not. (if that makes any sense)

Note the Topic. it says.

"Oil Controll In Rb's"

RB means rb20 as well to me!

Hahahaa looks like everyone is jumping at the opportunity to help Sydney kid - Seeing he helps us out all the time =)

If everyone whom he helped sent SK only 1 carton of beer he'd put VB out of business.

If everyone whom he helped sent SK only 1 carton of beer he'd put VB out of business.

Supply on demand is why fuel costs so much. So if everyone did this.. Imagine how much a carton of beer would cost ? lol

Guest Mashrock

what do you do when your car has come from japan, clearly has been used for circuit work, and looking like its raced many laps and still goes like a champion?

should i suspect all the parts are inplace? as auction sheet tell me sheet all.

i do have rather large oil pressure. compression is fine and everything else is a1.

caus i'm stingin to take it out to eastern creek for a good ol thrashing.

what do you do when your car has come from japan, clearly has been used for circuit work, and looking like its raced many laps and still goes like a champion?

should i suspect all the parts are inplace? as auction sheet tell me sheet all.

i do have rather large oil pressure. compression is fine and everything else is a1.

caus i'm stingin to take it out to eastern creek for a good ol thrashing.

Take a look at the sump, if it has wings then it will most likely be OK. If it doesn’t have wings, then I wouldn’t be going anywhere near a circuit until it does. Especially if it’s a 4wd. Just because it lived a life in Japan, doesn’t mean it will live one here. The guy driving it might have been a woos and blasted down the straights and trickled around the corners ie; no G forces to cause the oil surge.

At the very least watch the oil pressure and temperature guages like a hawk the first time out.

:) Cheers :D

while we're on this topic, what is the best way to block the other oil feed?

so we block it at the top? are there any issues with oil riding in the block however not circulating?

I was just going to block it of with some newspaper or some glue tak or something LOL j/k

Hmmmm.. Good question... Whats the best way ? can just tap the old restrictor down and screw something in its place to block it off?

Hmmm

you could use copper rod at the diameter of the feed, after you knock down the original restrictor ..

pretty sure this has been suggested as an alternate to the purchase of a tomei style restrictor when you can use copper rod with a hole drilled to custom specs ..

So once you have knocked the origanal restrictor down. Where does it go?? Does it stay in the block?? Not sure I like that idea, maybe you can use an ease-out to pull it clear of the block???

As for a new size restrictor, just make up a bronze or copper bush with the right size orifice! Sounds too easy.

I'll check this out this week and get back later.

Turbine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...