Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The restrictor from factory (and aftermarket ones) is about 3mm deep. Generally people just push any new restrictor on top of an old one, so you need to drill 3 to 6mm. But you should drill it out of the block and then push it in later, you don't need crap in the oil galleries.

only problem with that is some restrictors get a bit smaller when you put them in. myne went from a ~1.5mm hole down to almost nothing just from tapping them into the block, then had to drill them out again once they were in

  • 3 months later...

The guys at duncan foster in south sydney fit all those drain back fittings to the end of the head for external oil drain back.

They also fitted to mine a fitting to the exhaust side next to the standard drain ,an external fitting there as the engine leans that way so the oil does not pool up

Makes sense i guess???

Not talking about oil restrictors that are fitted to block ,but oil drain back fittings fitted EXTERNALLY as well

only problem with that is some restrictors get a bit smaller when you put them in. myne went from a ~1.5mm hole down to almost nothing just from tapping them into the block, then had to drill them out again once they were in

A grubscrew restrictor wont have that issue.

Who ever made those ones that are closing up most likely made them too big in the OD. Too much crush!

they were the tomei ones, but i sent you a long email with far more detail. :thumbsup:

Quick question. I have a neo rb25 which pushes 350 rwkw and sees a lot of track thrashing and limiter action. Never once has catch can seen oil so oil control is pretty decent. Anyway it's all apart now and I'm getting a crank collar fitted and was going to go n1 oil pump. Will I need restrictors in the block? If so what size do ppl suggest. Cheers

They are no good period Simon. Particularly if you are a slider.The constant banging on the limiter will crack the gear as sure as theres shit in a cat.

The last few i saw fail all had the snout extension in place.

A season or two of competition would surely have identified setup weaknesses for the engine.

If you've got no evidence of oil supply/delivery problems, then it sounds like the OEM pump design is ok for the application. Whether that particular pump should be replaced might be an issue to resolve after good inspection.

Are you freshening the engine, or planning on development work and spinning it faster?

A set of billet gears is a worthy investment. I've seen good results from them.

I cant advise you what oil restriction setup works for the neo as I've had no experience with it.

You still need an oil supply to drive the vct but unlike the 33 head you dont have to feed hydraulic lifters. Surely someone on here has had experience with this setup.

I've lost count the amount of times I've hit my limiter with my N1 pump. Hell @ the drags i even flat change just for a laugh.

Virtually 12 months on, no issue at all.

Guess you northern people get different N1 pumps to us down here.

Dale. I spun bearings as a result of an oil cooler connection failure. So replacing crank. Bearings and getting crank collar done also. Haven't pulled my pump apart yet but there was very little in the way of bearing material so I may be lucky. However I kinda doubt re-using it is a smart move. Was leaning toasted cleaning and inspecting housing and fitting billet gears. I don't think I'll run restrictors if I go down this path as pressure and flow should remain the same

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
    • thanks GTSboy. My confusion at the moment is i am trying to locate the ignition, ECU battery power and the ECU negative The closest thing i can find is the for the S15 on Page 8 of the Wiring Specialties web page https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F33_M_GgENQnZ6STMxVmVNd1E/view?resourcekey=0-eZ4nNRwRoqa1qvKlWWHm8A I cannot find the same diagram for the R33 RB25DET Series 2 dash plug pin out.... Do you know what the Pins? or know where i can find the same pinout diagram for the RB dash plug? Thanks for the advice on the box... i like a 6 speed so might be on the lookout or the box now.. a topic of discussion for another post...
    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
×
×
  • Create New...