Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For a car that does regular track days and hard driving should be ok, but when driven on cold nights etc would pay to be blocked return

Block it off and do another 2500 then do another test to see if it effects the rseults.

  • 4 months later...

Hey guys just want to make sure im on the right path here... Car is 95% street driven but 4 or 5 track days a year.

RB28 is currently with engine builder and have the following being installed

- 9 litre sump

- Nitto oil pump

- Rear head drain to sump

- Mines rocker cover baffle kit

- Oil restrictor size? 1mm with nitto pump?

- Oil air separator and catch can set up

I will check on monday to see if this is going to be done

4. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block

5. Machine around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil

Anything else Im missing out?

I wouldn't bother with the so-called head drain to sump. No-=one has been able to show that it drains any oil. Better to run a breather from the sump to a catch can. My RB30 (different from yours) has two holes tapped in sump and one line goes to top of tank and the other is a return as at WOT a fair bit of oil is pushed out.

You obviously need to do all the drilling and relieving before the block is cleaned.

1.0mm restrictor sounds right

Mines rocker cover baffles seem to work

Oil air seperator and catch can sound good - going to eventually vent to intake or atmosphere?

Cheers thanks for the advice!

Im pretty sure were running a return to the sump as I did request that. I dont think they have started with the block yet so Ill give them a call on monday. They probably already are doing this as they have worked on a lot of gtr's before but better to ask the right questions and do the job properly once. With the catch can setup probably going to vent to atmosphere, but Im not sure what they have planned. Does it make a difference apart from legalities?

Cheers thanks for the advice!

Im pretty sure were running a return to the sump as I did request that. I dont think they have started with the block yet so Ill give them a call on monday. They probably already are doing this as they have worked on a lot of gtr's before but better to ask the right questions and do the job properly once. With the catch can setup probably going to vent to atmosphere, but Im not sure what they have planned. Does it make a difference apart from legalities?

I don't think so. I am currently running one catch can for the sump breather and the cam cover breathers. By now there is pretty much nothing coming out of the cam cover breathers but the breather/filter for the catch can at WOT exudes some oily mist (just nuisance value) so my plan is to run just the sump to one catch can and run the breather from that and the cam cover breathers to a second catch can set up as an air oil seperator and either vent that one to atmosphere or preferably vent the second one (assuming there's virtually no oil coming out of it) to the turbo intake pipe.
  • 1 month later...

Bumping this up,

I know the topic is for drift drag etc,

But do the rules still apply for street use?

I've bought a nitto pump coz I don't wanna break n1 pumps etc but seeing as the nitto pump flows a lot more oil at 7000rpm then standard this would pool the head therefore oil restritors would be used to limit the oil going to the head (plus other oil control)

But for a street driven r33 rb25det VCt daily driver that isn't going to see high rpm all day long only few street pulls and 1 1/4mile

If you were to restrit the oil going to the head wouldn't this result at lower rpm (cruising) for the hydraulic lifters to be noisey?

Seeing as litres/ per min nitto vs factory is

Engine rpm. Factory. Nitto

750. 4.6. 6.5

2200. 15.3. 20.2

7000. 46.5. 64.8

Pretty much I'm trying to fine out what oil restritors I need to not pool the head up high rpm and still be suitable for street daily cruising?

Leave the front, block middle, 1.5rear

Leave the front, block middle, 1.3 rear

Leave the front, 1.2 middle, 1.2 rear

I have been told to do this? But with the 1.5 rear I've heard of noisey lifters?

This may have been covered for other oil pumps but have seen anyone talk about it for a nitto pump and street use

Thanks for any help

You need to get pressure set to a suitable pressure for your engine first. I run a tomei pump, makes 35 psi at idle when hot and regulated to 70psi. I also have 2x 1.3 restrictors and lifters arent noisy but you can hear them. I do recon my restrictors crushed to about 1mm

Remember what the pumps free flow and what the pumps flow when both are set to exact pressure is different. 70 psi of oil pressure is 70 psi. Unlike air or compressables, its hydraulic. They both move the same at given pressures with a given restriction.

Basically if pressure is set, flow is irrelevant between pumps

Hmmm everyone I have rang (fair few shops) including nitto, can not tell me a straight answer which makes me wonder!!!

I've been told again to do

Leave front, 1.5mm middle, block rear

Also everyone I have rang has not said anything about adjusting the pressure? Even nitto

Hmmm everyone I have rang (fair few shops) including nitto, can not tell me a straight answer which makes me wonder!!!

I've been told again to do

Leave front, 1.5mm middle, block rear

Also everyone I have rang has not said anything about adjusting the pressure? Even nitto

Whats nitto's pressure set at? You dont want excessive pressure. I got lewis engines to set my pressure for 40 bucks... Highly reccomend especially if internal relief valve which means engine out

What size did you go?

Also nitto recommend not to adjust the pressure valve :/

As above i left vct std, and 1.3mm in the other two. They crushed down to more like 1mm. Using 65-70 psi... Ask what the pressure is set at.. I wouldn't go any less than those restrictions as at idle lifters in mine are more audible...

Remember 1x 1.5mm flows over 2/3 the volume of 2x 1mm restrictors

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...