Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So theoretically it would actually be best to have the sump breather go back into the cam covers, which would help push oil down the head drains if it has that external passage.

But by that logic the breathers at the back of the block are pretty massive and there are two... So the oil drains shouldn't have that much trouble draining..... Theoretically.

No it doesn't help in the way you've described because the sump itself is where the blowby goes and where the "high" pressure is. The idea is to reduce the blowby gasses that have to go through the head - either by directing them to the catch can or around the head into the breather system (via the filler cap mod). I favour the former simply because it reduce the velocity of the gasses in the breather system and therefore makes it less likely they will entrain oil. Also you don't want the whole system pressurised as it just costs you horsepowahs.

In a wet sump the only thing returning oil to the sump is gravity and the oil has to pass the blowby gasses going in the opposite direction.

I'm trying to upload a pic of my bay but it won't let me :(

Menthol,

It's not that it will push oil down but reduces how much air is flowing up the returns trapping the oil in the head, people under estimate how much blowby come out of these things under high boost applications,ie 20psi+, next time your car is on the dyno see if you can watch the breather outlet, it will shock you

Simon,

While it will greatly reduce the amount of air pressure is the crankcase, air will flow the path of least resistance and if that is via the two lines running to the catch can then that is where the air will flow and it will take the oil with it, if the catch creates a restriction then it will leave via the oil returns again trapped the oil in the head

I have seen too many times setups running from to low in the crank case ( mine included which come from the block ) where the lines leave without passing through the cam covers and they end up filling up the catch can leaving the sump with out enough oil :(

If the pickup is to low then around a high speed high power corner the oil will cover the pickup and the blowby will pump the oil up the line to the catch can, but if you are not having issues with yours then you obviously have it sorted :thumbsup:, if it aren't broke don't fix it :)

Another way to increase vacuum in the crankcase and rocker breathers is to also run a large diameter line from the catch can to the intake pipe. This will induce a lower then Atmospheric pressure AND it allows you to run a sealed catch can and make it more legal if you choose to do so...

Down side is if you choose to seal the catch can there may get oil in the intake

Another way to increase vacuum in the crankcase and rocker breathers is to also run a large diameter line from the catch can to the intake pipe. This will induce a lower then Atmospheric pressure AND it allows you to run a sealed catch can and make it more legal if you choose to do so...

Down side is if you choose to seal the catch can there may get oil in the intake

What you are describing is the stock setup for the GTR's with a Nismo can fitted.

Another way to increase vacuum in the crankcase and rocker breathers is to also run a large diameter line from the catch can to the intake pipe. This will induce a lower then Atmospheric pressure AND it allows you to run a sealed catch can and make it more legal if you choose to do so...

Down side is if you choose to seal the catch can there may get oil in the intake

In theory that's sounds good but what it does is increase air velocity up the oil returns/catch can lines increasing the amount of oil leaving the engine, and is how my setup is currently done for legal reasons and why so much thought had to go into it and it's proven to work with 22psi boost and 400kws at all 4 on SMSP-s which is a tight twisty track that does a good job of showing a setups short comings

Do you have an oil return line from your catch can to the sump mick?

If it was draining back when the engine is in vacuum that would be a solution?

Yeah, -12 line from bottom back of front catch can to fitting in block next to starter motor with a one way valve on it

It can't until engine is off as the vacuum is running through the catch cans

I'm trying to upload a pic of my bay but it won't let me :(

Menthol,

It's not that it will push oil down but reduces how much air is flowing up the returns trapping the oil in the head, people under estimate how much blowby come out of these things under high boost applications,ie 20psi+, next time your car is on the dyno see if you can watch the breather outlet, it will shock you

Simon,

While it will greatly reduce the amount of air pressure is the crankcase, air will flow the path of least resistance and if that is via the two lines running to the catch can then that is where the air will flow and it will take the oil with it, if the catch creates a restriction then it will leave via the oil returns again trapped the oil in the head

I have seen too many times setups running from to low in the crank case ( mine included which come from the block ) where the lines leave without passing through the cam covers and they end up filling up the catch can leaving the sump with out enough oil :(

If the pickup is to low then around a high speed high power corner the oil will cover the pickup and the blowby will pump the oil up the line to the catch can, but if you are not having issues with yours then you obviously have it sorted :thumbsup:, if it aren't broke don't fix it :)

yeah exactly what happened to me, Did you just bore a hole in your crank and weld -12s into that?

i was thinking about doing this but was worried about the strength in the block walls.

if this can be done it would save me alot of headache

yeah surely not the best :/ I have 2x -12 on the highest point of my sump, and iv only had the issue of puking when I over fill my sump.

seeing as I run e85 I don't drain mine back to sump either

would be interesting to know how else you could get the vents higher.

next time ill just go drysump, LESS HASTLE!!

Hardly less hassle but certainly as better solution if you have money to burn. I have managed without but if I had a 600kw build I would at least look at an accusump If not a full dry sump.

I drilled and tapped 3 holes in the block ( 2 x -12 and 1x -16 ), placement of these holes is very important for block strength, get it wrong and shit can turn bad pretty quick

I also have the water jackets half full of grout and a platinum racing adaptor plate which ties the girdle and block together

The Accusump is a really really good band aid, but and ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, set your oiling system up right from the get go and it shouldn't be necessary

  • Like 1

I have a 600hp 25/30 driftcar, about to turn it up a bit for racewars next yr, hoping to go 800rwhp, but on current set up its running 6.5L trapdoor extended sump, 2L accusump, 2 sump breathers. 2x1.2mm restrictors, blocked vct feed, enlarged oil drains, decent vented catch can. tomei oil pump. all up with the oil cooler and accusump it holds around 9.5L. the only time ive ever had quite an oil puke was when I over filled the sump, other than that, its usually pretty clean apart from the ethanol. has quite a high oil pressure too, sits around 80psi once warm at 2000rpm hits relief spring pressure (110psi) around 4000rpm. haven't had any issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...