Jump to content
SAU Community

Mongoose Alarm Installers


JD-33
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

anyone know who sells and installs mongoose alarms in the ACT ?

I am after the M80G

Cheers

-JD

Mongoose is crap had one already, gave me nothing but problems, had to get it taken back out and fitted an Autowatch alarm (456rli) with anti-hijacking and works brilliantly

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mongoose is crap had one already, gave me nothing but problems, had to get it taken back out and fitted an Autowatch alarm (456rli) with anti-hijacking and works brilliantly

really??

I have been a dealer for them for the past 3 years nd have had ZERO problems with them. yours sounds like an install problem as the units do not stuff up. ( also stop pushing autowatch, we already know its a good product.)

www.mongoose.com.au and look under dealers. or ring the hornsby office and ask.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JD II

Pretty sure both BDL at Fyshwick and Braddon Car stereo both do Mongoose stuff.

As for nothing ever going wrong with them, I had a Mongoose fitted less than 18 months and one of the remote keyfobs decided to "stick" on and kept randomly locking and unlocking the doors. Don't see how that one could be an "install problem".

I was also told that a turbo timer could be added to it later on. When I went back "later on" I was told that it couldn't be done but they would be happy to install a better system that could for like another $500+.

Not in the habit of bagging a business on here, PM me if you want to know where it was done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup ^^ Total bullshit isnt it. I went back yesterday to get my turbo timer installed... its already wired, all they have to do is stuff around with the modual! Wanted $120 for it, what a rip off:) I'll deal with it myself for that price.

Dayne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you have a 60 or an 80 buit within the last two years it will take a time. in teh case of a 60 you need to fiddle with the module . the 80 needs option 13 turned on. remotes are a warranty item so if one stuffs up take it back to the dealer. what I meant buy zero problems was teh main unit.

JD33 ( shop would be nice- that way I can keep people clear of it.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys, you walked into the trap yourself by saying "ill be back once i have a turbo timer". Make them put in writting that they'll do it for free when you come back. Its not rocket science, not all businesses are out there to soley serve the customer.

Yeah either BDL belconnen or fyshwich stock them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Does anyone know if the sensitivity of the Mongoose alarms can be adjusted?

It goes off way too easy.

I swear if an ant farts within 10 feet of it, it would go off. Annoying as hell.

What type of sensors do you have on it? most of the sensors can be addjust with ease, a matter of turning a screw on the sensor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a mongoose 60 series fitted roughly 12 months ago and no probs. Recently bought a

timer and rang the guy who fitted it to see if it can be done. He said no worries. Anyway spent

an hour on it as he had to remove the dash to connect all the functions that the Greddy timer

comes with. On the alarm module he just flicked a switch for the timer. He also upped the

sensativity by turning it with a small screw driver. So now when the car turns off about ten seconds

later beps once and all done. By the way he charged me $80 to fit the timer ( that was come to me ).

Also a friend with a R33 has the same one as does my dad, all fitted by the same guy. Alarm is normally

$300 supply and fit, but for the R33 was $350 as he had to fit a central locking motor to one door

so both would open with the pager. His details are Mode auto electrical. Peter Bevc 0418369634.

Cant say enough about this guy as he is polite does good work and the best thing of all, He comes

to you. :)

PS: sorry JD this guy is in Vic.

Edited by mickr33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, I was supprised. Its all about flow rather then housing size.  Doing G35-900 Vs ATR45SS-1 Next. 62mm V 61mm. 
    • Of course sometimes you cannot go with the cheaper alternative but I try to weigh it up for the application - am I competing or am I going to the track ten times p/yr. As long as there’s enough information out there to back the cheaper alternative as a good option I’ll go for that.   I’m a bit of a bastard though as it’s my job to reduce costs, particularly on non income generating assets. EUR 500 saved for the diff + EUR 1,000 saved on BC racing over Bilstein and then say EUR 300 versus EUR 600 on an off brand windscreen versus OEM (for example) soon accumulates. I mean, I’m probably gonna put the car in the ditch anyway. Absolutely do not take this as a justification for always buying cheap shitty parts, just a rationale for doing your research and considering what’s necessary for your application.    
    • All the above effort, time, swapping out parts in the dark (i.e. no O2 data). You're literally running in the dark.
    • Looks like both of my cars have pressure switch issues. The R32 GTR has 18 flashes on the ATTESSA controller which is "ETS pressure switch circuit". The 4WD light is intermittent, and often just restarting the car clears it. There is an $300 replacement option https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285675135148?itmmeta=01HXN3YKRGKQ08GRZ5KFKKZWJT&hash=item428390a0ac:g:6CcAAOSwWxBltMEG so if it becomes a permanent issue and I can confirm that the switch is the issue, i have a solution. The NM35 is reporting C1208, and disconnecting the switch causes the 4WD light to go away. Translating from the Japanese shop manual "when the pressure is reduced to 2.6MPa (377 psi) or less: conduction occurs when the pressure increases to 3.8MPa (550 psi) or less: conduction is present. Reference: • Immediately after the E-TS actuator motor stops, the pressure inside the accumulator is high and there is no continuity." Not sure how good the translation is but from what i can deduce this means the switch is normally closed (NC) and as the pressure builds from 0 to 550 psi the switch stays closed, then opens and 550 psi. As the pressure drops from 550 psi to 377 psi the switch stays open then closes again at 377 psi. Is that how these things work? These pressures are a lot higher than the R32 ("control pressure 0-228 psi") but i'm hoping i can find a generic switch (like they've done for the R32) to use as a replacement. Maybe something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355586397452?epid=1676016964&itmmeta=01HXN534AF22ACTG6TGDDQGEQ7&hash=item52ca99d50c:g:mAEAAOSw8ilmBcMh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LtWdNlWHgyJ%2F3cbw25S2A1lde3qBi3fJii4T3lQavCz4kpqiD42SmBa4FocMvXCjcxiowHjb8vZ8%2BWxc53BkHv781tkStSnCDaenfGKC3bIp0keK20dfsn9LoPa3TfqaEmAydqqyKobgTdXsGGzsl%2BRjOVGuD8OIpOv%2B0wMl7aUtHg0iJtojbtzA%2BRS8Xfm8Ufjuvz4niwrqglAXFUbkL6J%2FGuHPeeECZhLBBN3iNM1Swl94Fv5zE95YK%2B5O6dxDN1ySNOjdMxkA8yaprbuwRHFQv1nlGh%2FWjekj6EUFR2%2FO4HTsoKtSAkY0Mj1w1uf1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zFjKXtYw but with a lower close pressure, and thread adapter if required. Am i dreaming?
×
×
  • Create New...