Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at upgrading my braking system (32 GTST Mspec) in the near future. Have been eyeing off a set of Project Mu 6 slot rotors, but was told the DBA's werent too bad, and may be a cheaper alternative.

Anyone had experience with either of these rotors, maybe even both and can give me a bit of feedback ?

Also if someone can recommend a decent caliper upgrade to suit would be very greatful, planning on running the standard master cylinder but can upgrade if necessary, already have braided brake lines and run a good quality Motul Fluid and decent pads.

Have had a quick search of the forums in the appropriate section didnt really come up with anything, cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110799-dba-vs-project-mu/
Share on other sites

Hmmm i'll definitely look into the RDA's, so far have had some mixed reactions about the DBA's so im a bit hesitant. Project MU or RDA are the front runners at the moment, I think the RDA's come in a little cheaper too will try and find a supplier tomorrow and make some enquiries, thanks for the help guys...

No recommendations on calipers or master cylinder upgrades ?

Hmmm i'll definitely look into the RDA's, so far have had some mixed reactions about the DBA's so im a bit hesitant. Project MU or RDA are the front runners at the moment, I think the RDA's come in a little cheaper too will try and find a supplier tomorrow and make some enquiries, thanks for the help guys...

No recommendations on calipers or master cylinder upgrades ?

Put the new pads and disks on and see if you still think you need to upgrade the calipers.

slotted rotors are a good upgrade, but perhaps you should consider larger calipers and slotted rotors to match (as mentioned, r32 gtr or r33 gst-t or brembos's perhaps)

also, what braking problems are you having? are you getting brake fade? alot of people contribute poor braking performance to the actual brakes but often it's the tyres you're using (if you have no problems locking all 4 wheels up with abs unplugged...)

slotted rotors are a good upgrade, but perhaps you should consider larger calipers and slotted rotors to match (as mentioned, r32 gtr or r33 gst-t or brembos's perhaps)

also, what braking problems are you having? are you getting brake fade? alot of people contribute poor braking performance to the actual brakes but often it's the tyres you're using (if you have no problems locking all 4 wheels up with abs unplugged...)

Its more a case of security :O 500hp with standard R32 type M brakes... leaves me a little scared at times ill admit.

Have had some fade problems after some good spirited driving through mountains and a few instances slowing from high speeds. Other times where I would have liked to slow down a bit faster, but I attribute that to having some less than friendly rubber on :P

All this is going to be compounded when I take it to the track (which are my intentions) so I'd like to get it sorted prior to taking it out there.

Other then perhaps competitive pricing, why are ppl so keen to be using RDAs and Mu rotors?

If you are running slotted DBA 4000s you will never have any problem...im kinda partial to using the Kangaroo Paw rotor design before just plain straight vane vented rotors.

I did see some Brembo replacement rotors for the Z32 300ZX that were curved vane...and they were reasonaby priced....

the mu scr pro has something similar to the kangaroo paw, though just short straight sections as opposed to the more diamond shaped dba type. There area also a lot less vanes in the scr pro, so reduced weight.

And they are pretty 2 piece rotors. C'mon roy, i know you have a brake fetish!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
×
×
  • Create New...