Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've got a 98 GT-T. I've had a new turbo and powerFC for a while and wanted to get more performance. I was recommended to port and polish the intake and exhaust. We found out they used abrasive material to do it like gritty sand. So I got with my friend that tunes Hondas and we decided to try it ourselves. We got a bag of sandblasting sand and hooked up into the intake and started the car. We had to hold the gas so it would run. He wanted to let the engine suck in the sand through the intake so it would port it out and then push it out the ehxaust so it would port the exhaust manifold.

I was worried that it might cause problems but he figured it'd be OK as long as we didn't make boost and it get sucked in the turbo. After running the car and letting it suck in sand we got about half way through a 25 kg bag. The check engine light was on and the engine was bucking and kicking and sounding really weird. We stopped and hooked the car back up normal and took off the sand supply. We tried to start it again and it was really hard. Once started it couldn't idle and kept making weird noises. We took it out and drove it and it started to make scraping and knocking noises.

Help! Can anyone tell me what to do! My buddy only does Hondas so he doesn't know much about Nissans.

All Help Appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110974-sand-blasting-port-and-polish/
Share on other sites

Ha ha! good one mate!

Funny thing is someone probably did this in real life, theres always someone stupid doing things you would never even dream of somewhere in the world.

Nothing like putting sand into the motor to farquar it. People like that must wonder why factories put air filters on to stop sand going into the engine lol

I spoke to another of my buddys friends and he said that my buddy didn't do it right.

The "Live Port and Polish" as REAL mechanics call it can only be properly done if you intake the abrasive material THROUGH an air flow meter. The ECU can not determine how much abrasive has been inducted, and therefore may not evenly erode the ports if the material does not pass through a working AFM.

And it's not a real Port & Polish if you leave out the polish. After completing the 'Live Port', then its time for the 'Live Polish'. Since this part can take a while, it's ok to rev the motor above 5k RPM (rotories can go to 6k, however pushrod motors are recommended not to exceed 4k). Block off the exhaust with a golfball (or for fun, a basketball). At the same place that you introduced the abrasive to the engine (still through an AFM), pop open a can of Turtle Wax or Never Dull. Let the engine suck it up. Since the exhaust is blocked off, the engine will circulate the polish, and give the internals that 'new car' look

I spoke to another of my buddys friends and he said that my buddy didn't do it right.

The "Live Port and Polish" as REAL mechanics call it can only be properly done if you intake the abrasive material THROUGH an air flow meter. The ECU can not determine how much abrasive has been inducted, and therefore may not evenly erode the ports if the material does not pass through a working AFM.

And it's not a real Port & Polish if you leave out the polish. After completing the 'Live Port', then its time for the 'Live Polish'. Since this part can take a while, it's ok to rev the motor above 5k RPM (rotories can go to 6k, however pushrod motors are recommended not to exceed 4k). Block off the exhaust with a golfball (or for fun, a basketball). At the same place that you introduced the abrasive to the engine (still through an AFM), pop open a can of Turtle Wax or Never Dull. Let the engine suck it up. Since the exhaust is blocked off, the engine will circulate the polish, and give the internals that 'new car' look

oh that bit is gold!

I'd suggest you stop mucking about with Old Skool crap and go straight to live extrude honing. No need to run the engine but you simply attach the pressure feed of the hone to where the throttle body fits up. It ports, polishes and match ports in one go and every 30 seconds you just turn it over a bit with the starter motor. Cleanup is just pump through kero, take the plugs out and crank her over for a while then leave to dry while you do an oil change. No need to strip the engine. There have been reports of 30% improvements in flow rates.

Sorry to kill your GB on the way cool HKS sand Ferni but that's a really cheap buy.

Hope that helps.

OMFG this is the Funniest threads ever. sandblasting sand in the engine thats gold, why dont u put sugar in ur fuel tank it gives it more octane, makes ur car run more rich so u can booost more LoL.

if u really want more HP drain ur oil and just use 4L of diesel gives it more of a spark :(

and to make ur car run more smooth add about 1-2L of oil in ur water to give the engine more lube..

tell me how it goes after that.....

I don`t understand any of this.If I rev the engine at five thousand rpm wouldn`t that hurt the engine? Maybe if I set up a gravity feed using a bucket while I`m driving so I have some load on the motor.Was the HKS sand silica based? Which side of my mouth do I hang my tongue while driving? So many questions, my head hurts !!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...