Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have done a search, but it seemed to give almost every thread a result for my search, so i came up with nothing after searching through like 30 pages of threads

Has anyone removed their steering wheel before on an R32?

Can someone give me some idea as to where to start and what to do?

cheers,

Warren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112002-how-to-remove-steering-wheel-on-r32/
Share on other sites

Pop the horn button, remove the nut (about ~18mm I think it was) and pull the steering wheel off. If you are having trouble with pulling it directly off, knock around the outside of the wheel with the palm of your hand ro loosen the grip from the spline.

USE FORCE!!

Then you see the see the horn/ground adapter for the horn, unplug that and.....I guess, attach your new wheel :D. I put a MOMO wheel on my 32 and theres no way you can attach the horn power/ground to the power/ground on the wheel. I just wound the ground wire around inside the BOSS Kit and made a contact with ground. Dodgy but it has always word since.

Theres 2 levers under the steering wheel column that allow you to adjust it. One enables the wheel to move forwards and backwards and the other enables up and down. Or have you adjusted them as far as they'll go already?!

ok i did it today, and the steering wheel came off easily :)

My problem now is that the rod that the steering wheel bolts onto was shorter than i was expecting.

Has anyone been able to modify their steering wheel to enable it to stick out further? A couple of cm difference would be all that i need...

cheers,

Warren

That could prove a tricky process.. You'd have to pull the whole steering out, and get it rewelded. Which would not only be tricky, it could invalidate the structural engineering of the car if inspected.

You have no arms?

picture T-rex - big but with tiny arms...

no seriously, it would just make it more comfortable for steering. obviously i have been fine for hte last 3 years i have had the car, but am always thinking of how i can make it that little bit better :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...