Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have done a search, but it seemed to give almost every thread a result for my search, so i came up with nothing after searching through like 30 pages of threads

Has anyone removed their steering wheel before on an R32?

Can someone give me some idea as to where to start and what to do?

cheers,

Warren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112002-how-to-remove-steering-wheel-on-r32/
Share on other sites

Pop the horn button, remove the nut (about ~18mm I think it was) and pull the steering wheel off. If you are having trouble with pulling it directly off, knock around the outside of the wheel with the palm of your hand ro loosen the grip from the spline.

USE FORCE!!

Then you see the see the horn/ground adapter for the horn, unplug that and.....I guess, attach your new wheel :D. I put a MOMO wheel on my 32 and theres no way you can attach the horn power/ground to the power/ground on the wheel. I just wound the ground wire around inside the BOSS Kit and made a contact with ground. Dodgy but it has always word since.

Theres 2 levers under the steering wheel column that allow you to adjust it. One enables the wheel to move forwards and backwards and the other enables up and down. Or have you adjusted them as far as they'll go already?!

ok i did it today, and the steering wheel came off easily :)

My problem now is that the rod that the steering wheel bolts onto was shorter than i was expecting.

Has anyone been able to modify their steering wheel to enable it to stick out further? A couple of cm difference would be all that i need...

cheers,

Warren

That could prove a tricky process.. You'd have to pull the whole steering out, and get it rewelded. Which would not only be tricky, it could invalidate the structural engineering of the car if inspected.

You have no arms?

picture T-rex - big but with tiny arms...

no seriously, it would just make it more comfortable for steering. obviously i have been fine for hte last 3 years i have had the car, but am always thinking of how i can make it that little bit better :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...