Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

wonder if anyone could shed some light on this

i was gonna get a gtr front bar on my gtst r32

the gtr bar would b aftermarket that would fit a gtst but would the brackets on the inside need to b changed coz of the different shape or would it bolt on in the existing places?

if anyone has done anything similar or knows sum1 who has let me know how it went .

cheers

ps while where on the topic, how hard would it b to fil a r33 gtr bar on a r32

i think we've all seen it done but with how much difficulty?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11303-r32-gtr-front-bar-on-gtst/
Share on other sites

I was thinking about doin' this too, but with a R32 GTR bar for my GTS4.

Cos I need room for a intercooler but the standard one on now doesn't have a intake hole big enough for a core size around 600x300x80. Besides the bar isn't very well attatched, quite flimsy I might say.

I have a genuine GTR front bumper on my GTSt. How do i know? Well its a nissan stamped, PLASTIC bumper in the original 2 piece configuration that came on the GTR only. I also have the aluminium bonnet :P

It does fit well, and by the looks of things it doesnt look too difficult to do. The guards might be wider on the GTR, except they start and finish in the same place... they just bulge out more along the way.

A mechanic friend of mine whos had his R32 GTSt for years didnt think the original GTR bumpers fitted either until he saw mine.

Red17

I believe the GTR bars are roughly a couple of cm's wider either side. I have a gtr copy bar sitting @ home which i was going to put on my gts-t, but haven't yet.

I don't believe it is a major job. However i've seen a gts-t with a gtr front that fitted well one side, but had about a 5cm gap on the other side.

The way i see it is the guards on both cars must come back to roughly the same point in regards to the join of bar & guard.

You may be able to just bend/cut back etc the bar into the brackets or you may need to cut out a section in the middle and fibreglass/plastic weld it back together.

I would like to know 4 sure myself....

a friend of mine resparyed a gtst purple

and he had all genuine gtr front bar and quarters and bonnet, which in turn he had to change blinkers and bonnet latch.

i would like to c what the support behing the gtr's front bar looks like, from just looking at each of the bars it looks like the support of the gtst sticks out to much and that it would have to b cut or removed to put a gtr front on.

anyone seen the support b4 on either a gtr or gtst with gtr bar?

Be sure to buy an original GTR bar, ie plastic NOT FIBREGLASS.

The plastic can bend and be made to fit a lot easier then the stiff fibreglass can.

My GTR bar was made for a GTSt, or so wac the claim, and went nowhere near like fitting. Trust me and several people including a reputable body shop said too hard (ie too expensive)

So moral of my tale, original Plastic bar fits easier, wont crack when rubbing speed humps, or get an exchange/money back guarantee that the GTR come GTSt fibregalss bar will fit your car.

i just purchased the 2nd hand gtr front bar for my gtst, it is fibreglass unfortunatly. althought for $80 i think its a bargan.

i know for sure it will fit on a gtst coz thats what car it was on when i bought it. its made in japan, sum JBO brand, seems a lil thin, but will do seem like it will fit except for those rectangle holes on either side of the no. plate (dont know if they got a name). 1 bad thing bout the bar is that its cracked in several places but is easily fixed. i was quoted round $400 for everything to b done, cracks, painted, fitted, and a lil damage to my car bcoz of a lil bump. to me this price seems fair, if anyone thinks not let me know so i dont step in anything.

  • 1 year later...

I have a genuine GTR front bar on my 32 GTST and the fit isn't snug but it is the toughest bar ever! Plastic takes a hell of a beating on anything the concrete decides to throw at it -cept wildlife....My only complaint is the plastic lip doesn't hold up against curbs or speedbumps or steep driveways! Be warned as i think replacement genuine lips aren't cheap (who am i kidding...what Skyline stuff is????)

PS: The genuine bars make the GTST look a little wider from front views...very tough and cool!

  • 2 weeks later...

The plastic original gtr bars will fit straight onto the gtst's. You just have to attach the bar at the corners(ie blinkers) and then affix the bar from there. I have an original vspec2 gtr bar on mine. everybody and there dog said it would not fit. It would need so much modifiying it would not be funny, so, i gave it a go, and wallah.. fits like a glove with nmo mods.. i wonder where they go the idea from?

The bar sits natural with the gaurds. Sits level, doesnt bow out of shpe of the gaurds, sits level with the headlights.. Just like a bought one for the gtst. The bar is back of it again ready to be painted, and my cooler fitted. Thats why i bought the bar in the first place. I bought the bar of a user on this forum, who has a skyline too. I dotn have a digi cam.. but when i get access and the bar is on, i will take pics and post em up.

I've got an original gtr bar on my 32gtst and it fits nicely all I had to do was cut two slits in the bumper support and fold back the metal where the number plate notch is to stop the bar from sticking out. This is the only mod required. Trust me it has to be done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...