Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just wanna know how much u guys r spendin on fuel a week, giving it a bit and not giving it a bit, like i wanna compare a relativley stock gtr to a mild modded gtst, pleave forgive me if this has been covered and re-direct me to the right thread.

Cheers

John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113900-fuel-consumption-gtr-vs-gts-t/
Share on other sites

I use BP Ultimate in my GT-R. If you drive like an absolute granma and pretty much never send the boost gauge too far above the zero mark/ always change up at 3000rpm or so, then you can get 600-650km out of a tank if you do mostly constant driving (till the fuel light comes on). But that's pretty painful.

I managed 400kms on 3/4 of a tank recently with a mix of light fanging/cruising/highway and city/town driving. Also, my car uses a plug'n'play Microtech LTX12 computer, which uses the Throttle Vs Map fuelling control, which is supposed to be more efficient than using the AFM's (A number of people have commented that they get better fuel economy when they set their Power FCs up with the D-Jetro option [which makes it work like the Microtech])

How bad can it get?- My car makes 260rwkW with stock turbs, and I once used 3/4 of a tank to travel 160km, which consisted of heaps and heaps of full-throttle thrashing.

What price fun?

cool thanx for the info from all u guys out there, still deciding on weather to buy the gtr tho has anyone see the black 32 with the white mags at autostyle? what do u reckon of that. sorry to go off topic

GTR - can get as low as 200k's to a tank

Depends how you drive it

I meant bouncing it off the rev limiter

hey N1GTR,

but if u drive smoothly ud get way more than 200 ay

Of course it will be better on fuel without full boost, they can be quite good on fuel if you dont drive it on boost - but really, why else would you drive a GTR?

isn't this what he is implying?

I get about 450kms to a tank during the working week and weekend fun is literally half that :laugh:

Yes, thats what i was implying

Hope this helps :(

Feel free to PM me if you want to know more

better fuel economy with a map sensor system is load of poo, it wont matter. engine load is engine load. its just tuned differently.

i get 400k's to a full tank on city

and 600ks on highway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...