R33 Gts4 Na

[niZmO_Man]

Suppose you can always turbo the car, upgrade brakes, suspension etc.

[Bennis]

Ide keep it and sell when youre off your ps...

Out of every single skyline I have ever driven: 31gxe, 32gtst, 33gts4 and 33gtst... the 33gts4 was thee biggest slug of them all. The extra weight really weighs them down and they are dreadfully slow and torqueless. They do however handle great which is what you would want not power on your p's. I have heard the extra weight makes them more thirsty then their gts25 peers

[dioonnn1]

Ide keep it and sell when youre off your ps...

Out of every single skyline I have ever driven: 31gxe, 32gtst, 33gts4 and 33gtst... the 33gts4 was thee biggest slug of them all. The extra weight really weighs them down and they are dreadfully slow and torqueless. They do however handle great which is what you would want not power on your p's. I have heard the extra weight makes them more thirsty then their gts25 peers

what would be some practical ways to reduce its weight to not make it as sluggish ??

[niZmO_Man]

Go to the gym and do cardio workouts. Improve your driving skills. Service the car to make it run better. Seriously wouldn't bother modding it much to make it "faster", just improve the grip/handling and improve your driving skills.

I doubt the N/A would use more fuel under everyday driving conditions. If you stepped out of a turbo Skyline and into an N/A Skyline, of course it'll feel slower so you'll thrash it more.

[dioonnn1]

you're right , actually I'm currently on my learners and I'm driving a 20 year old toyota hiace with an engine that's about to call it quits so really anything is going to feel 'fast' for me hahaha !!

[Bennis]

what would be some practical ways to reduce its weight to not make it as sluggish ??

Nah man, just gotta live with it.. they are what they.

If you respect the car and love it enough to not wanna sell it then for your full liscence do an rb26dett / stagea rb25det conversion + 5 stud coversion & brakes.

[central coast person]

There good cars when you figure them out...
Ive rebuilt the engine with New genuine crank, rods, 40thou pistons and rings, ACL racing bearings, oil pump, water pump then deck, honed and bored the block 40thou. Rebuild the head (but reused the valve-train parts) and full genuine gasket kit and Timing belt-kit everything cost me $2086 but i did all the work myself and i work for Nissan parts so i did get cost prices but the car is running well now 115-120KW@all four wheels.

Ive gone on to change all new genuine part like sensors (AFM, TPS, 02 sensor, coolant sensors), AAC valve, air regulator, throttle body, injectors, fuel pump, coilpacks, Exedy heavy duty clutch, flywheel, all the hoses (genuine coolant, fuel, breather) stack of genuine bolts, heart and A//c parts, Nismo engine mounts. The list goes on, ive done a lot to the handling of the car aswell like $3000 coilover and changed a few other things like new steering pump and rack and nismo rack bushes etc etc etc.

What im getting at is im now off my P plates and have spent a load and everything ive done is staying and helping with my turbo build apart from the injectors and fuel pump. So its all money well spent, ive now got a genuine Greddy manifold, turbo and loads more. There is nothing you can do wrong when buying these cars if you keep it when your off your p plates, it is VERY easy to bolt a turbo on to them

[adam96]

Hey , i have a gts4 myself , none of my friends seem to agree with me but it truly is a nugget! I bought it and resprayed it at my dads panelbeating/spray painting shop. I drive it every day to and from school and has given me no troubles if you don't include the countless times i get pulled over by cops. Overall it believe its a good car to start off with , but its still a nugget.

[zebra]

...Are they plastic "Brembo" caliper covers?

[adam96]

Im not going to lie , yes haha

[adam96]

Does anyone have any positive advice they could share?

[Gw2]

I own a gts4 aswell. The way it handles is amazing, really scary in the wet though.

Gts4s have shorter gear ratios then the rwd models, not sure if thats a good thing or bad thing.

Weights about 100kg more then the rwd model, also drinks abit more then the rwd model.

Lauching it off the line will beat the rwd model, i swear this car was made to be launched, probably best not to do it though incase you snap a driveshaft or something.

How much fuel do you get out of a full tank? I get around 350km with about 10-15L left in the tank, it says im empty but only takes around 45-55bucks to completely fill it up, guess its reading it wrong or something. Still 45-55bucks of petrol lasts me around 350km, which is pretty bad i reckon.

Theres not really any positives to this car, if you need a part for your car, its almost impossible to find gts4 parts. It shares some parts with the gtr model, so if one of them parts goes, expect to pay a fortune.

Honestly, its a good rare and fun car to drive, but theres just too many negatives to the car, id rather the rwd model. Although i let my friend test drive my car, hes driven plenty of the non turbo rwd models before, he reckons mine was the fastest hes ever driven, so i dont think they are any bit slower then the rwd model. Also have raced a few non turbo r33s during friday night princess highway drags, i beat every single one of them, but then again they all had massive 3inch exhausts, sucks the absolute power out of them.

Positive advice i can give you is, if your going to get an exhaust, 2.5inch is the absolute max you should go. Go over 2.5inch and i promise you your car will sound like crap, and youll lose to honda civics, mx5s and camrys. Get a cold air intake, extractors, 2.5inch exhaust, clean the throttle body, if the cars not thrashed to death, and if its manual, youll be getting low 7s-mid 7s 0-100, so your car will be about as a quick as a stock n/a supra. My car got 7.5 seconds 0-100 without a cold air intake and without extractors, so they have decent power for what they are.

Expect all the turbo guys to make fun of you and claim youll lose to camrys, wont happen unless you go 3inch exhaust. Mod your car the right way and youll have yourself a respectable skyline. Wont be the fastest p plate legal car, but itll be up there as long as you do it right. Mess it up and youll be slower then hondas...

[adam96]

Hahah thanks buddy well i already made a stupid mistake involving the exhause. I have got a 2'5 exhaust, stainless, which used to have a twin tip muffler . My friends convinced me to put a not too big but droney rocket tip and it feels like i lost alot of back pressure, and ive been considering putting the twint tip back on like in this photo.

And yes mine is manual and it was the only one i ever found manual. Btw i did find out how to put it in RWD after doing a bit of research

[adam96]

It makes it quite interesting to drive int he wet if you know what i mean haha

[central coast person]

Lauching it off the line will beat the rwd model, i swear this car was made to be launched, probably best not to do it though incase you snap a driveshaft or something.

My GTR making 420Kw at the Wheels couldn't do damage. The first thing to go would be the input shaft in the gearbox. I doubt you will break anything as its too under powered to. I do know the whole rear setup on the GTS-4 has nothing to do with a GTR the driveshafts are 5 bolt design and not the stronger 6 bolts like the GTR but they still wouldn't brake. In fact the only part on the drive train that shares the same things as a GTR are only the front driveshafts, and transfer case. The suspension is even worse, the whole rear cross member, hubs, knuckles and struts are different. No Hicas from factory aswell, only about 20% of the car is like a GTR.

Spent about $7,000+ on a Engine rebuild making it 40thou using only genuine parts everywhere
About another $10,000 on better Exedy clutch, Greddy coilovers, nismo control arms, Genuine Driveshafts new, all new power steering pump, rack and lines genuine, slotted rotors.... load more things to the car and its still my daily because thats all they will ever be. You can't even Turbo the car if you want to without tapping the block unlike the RWD models that have blanking bolts in the side of the block where the turbo oil feed and coolant feed come from on the GTS-t.

Also easiest car to get parts for as 90% of the parts are still available through Nissan, (could choose what size pistons and rings i wanted from Nissan even), Clutch & drivetrain, most suspension components, brakes and whole steering system all using new genuine parts from Nissan. All body parts the same as GTS-t so obviously even easier to get body parts new for. Although front guards for GTS-t are NLA now.
Only reason i know all this stuff is i worked for Nissan Parts and got it all at cost

Also i get 100Km 12.5L around town and 9L to 100Km on the highway
I stopped and saved when i couldn't turbo my car, Got a GTR, Forged engine, built head, port and polish everything 0-100Km in less then 3 sec on reliable tune

[Gw2]

Wow! 420kw at the wheels, 0-100 in 3 secs, that things a monster. My mechanic told me dont launch the car incase you stuff the driveshafts, not sure why he said it but its made me paranoid now lol. Its nice to know the potential the car has.

adam96 put the twin tip back on man, the car will be more responsive, youll be less cop bait, and youll save fuel. With your current exhaust, its sluggish in low rpms, your stepping on the accelerator more to get moving when your in the low rpms. This means you will be drinking more fuel while driving in daily conditions. My friend has an r34 n/a which has the newer and more fuel efficient engine rb25de neo. He had a 3inch blitz nur spec exhaust I think it was. Hes fuel consumption was way worse then mine. Hes car is lighter, and has the more fuel efficient engine yet drinks more and is slower because of that exhaust.

anyways whats your fuel comsumption like with your current exhaust and what was it like with the twin tip?

[adam96]

Yeah i think i might take that advice cause its terrible, i get 250-270km with $50 and i don't drive it that hard im sure it was better prior the tip change

[mad082]

That doesn't sound that bed economy wise. Without knowing exact figures it works out to only be about 11-13l/100kms.

[Gw2]

Doesnt sound that bad? Man thats terrible fuel consumption. Do n/a drink more then turbos or something?

[mad082]

If he's doing a trip of purely highway driving then it's poor economy, but around town they certainly aren't an economical engine compared to something like a 4cyl hatch back.

And the fact that both you and adam havn't given exact figures to work out accurate economy, we don't know what your economy is. Then you have to take into account driving style, driving situation (lot of stop start or city traffic that flows).

If you're getting 10 to 13l/100kms on city driving then you're doing ok. You'll be doing well to get under 10l/100kms on city driving unless you only drive on the motorways at 80kmh or more, in which case that's classed as highway driving. In which case getting under 9l/100kms is doing well.

Your economy of 350kms to 44-55l works out to be a bit over 10l/100kms (roughly estimated as a worse case scenario, so it could be better) which is pretty good for a natro skyline. People often think that a natro skyline should run cheaply, but they don't. They are a somewhat highly strung 2.5l 6cyl in a heavy car (for what they are). They will always get worse economy than something like a lancer or pulsar by a noticeable amount, as those sorts of cars are designed and tuned to be economical. on the highway you'll find that a natro skyline isn't much better (if at all) than a Commodore or falcon, since they are big torquey motors that can just amble along at 1800rpm or so at 100kmh.