Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Following on from the GTR cruise where a few people are interested in coming out to Mt Cotton to check it out and maybe have a go at the Mt Cotton Come and Try Day on the 21st of May, I thought I might start a new thread to let everyone know about it and other things happening around the place.

All the info for the Come and Try day is in the link above. Its aimed at people who have never driven there before, or never even been on a race track at all. If you're curious about what hillclimbing is like, or want to see the track from the driver's seat, this is your chance! You don't need to have a CAMS licence, or a fire extinguisher or anything. Just a helmet and ankle to wrist non-synthetic clothing and closed footwear.

The 2nd round of the Tighe Cams Hillclimb Series is on May 7. I'll be there in the GTR, and jmac will probably be there in his 34 GTT as well. Come along and have a look (free to spectate) and decide if you want to have a go at the Come and Try day on the 21st. MG Car Club's Hillclimb page

Now onto the really good stuff!

QLD Challenge Touring Road Event - Aug 26

This is like a mini targa, or a mini dutton rally, run over a full day and without the expensive entry fees or the need for a rollcage. This is the pick of the bunch of BSCC's (Brisbane Sporting Car Club) Touring Road Events. It's heavily focussed on special tests rather than navigation stages, and there are normally 7 or 8 special tests over the day at various locations between Ipswich and Toowoomba including Prince Henry Drive - a closed road stage on the edge of the Towoomba range. As well as closed roads at Gatton College and Wivenhoe Dam, plus a couple of motorkhanas and a speed test at Willowbank Dragstrip. Awesome fun!

Entry fee is about $120 for the day. All you need is a CAMS L2S licence for both yourself and your navigator, along with the usual saftey gear and apparel. A 2kg fire extinguisher is required for rally regs - they also acept two 1kg extinguishers.

I always look forward to this event! It would be great to get a few GTRs on this to stir up the WRX club who always have a number of entries with strongly modified cars. This is always a popular event with competitors. The website hasn't been updated this year yet, but it will give you the general idea of what the event is all about

http://www.queenslandchallenge.com/

Fulcrum Suspensions Touring Road Event - June 17

Another good TRE run in conjunction with Coates Rally Queensland. Stops at Coates Rally Queensland Service Park at Imbil for lunch, and includes a number of special tests sometimes including the tarmac special stage at Imbil used by the QRC field. In past years when i have competed or run as sweep, they have used Roadcraft driver training centre at Gympie, Noosa Hillclimb - the long version run by QRC called Hella Hillclimb Stage, and a couple of motorkhanas, but the tests and locations can vary year to year.

There is a bit of navigation in this one, but its not too hard once you get the hang of it, and BSCC run a "rally school" night before at their clubrooms at West End to show you how its done, and have a chat and a beer with the other competitors before the event. I'm planning on doing this one as a lead-up to the QLD Challenge.

I'll post the supp regs when they come out.

Well the Hillclimb is this Sunday if anyone wants to come and have a look before the Come and Try Day in a coupe of weeks. Normally Starts about 9:00 and finishes around 3:00. Free to spectate. Gramzow Rd, Mt Cotton, next to Mt Cotton Driver Training Centre. Its a short dirt road into the Hillclimb, but it's smooth and not rocky - lots of competitors drive their cars in (including me) so it can't be too bad.

9krpm, I use Bridgestone RE55S 225/50 on standard 16*8" GTR rims. Bought them mainly because I could get them at mates rates, but they're a very good tyre. More suited to sprints than hillclimbs to be honest, but I plan to use the car for a variety of things, so I didn't want a super soft hillclimb only tyre that will burn off the rims at a 4lap supersprint.

If you're looking to buy, I'd recommend Craig at Hornibrook Motorsport (can't find his card atm - but he'll be at the hillclimb on Sunday). He's a regular competitor at these club level events and will look after you with a good price. He'll push the Kuhmos, but I've heard nothing but good things about those tyres. Sullen even won Targa on them a couple of years ago, so they've gotta be half alright!

thanks hrd-hr30

I had the re55s in the past on my 17". They were great for track work and spirited hill driving. The only down side is the road noise and they only lasted 2 track days and 1000km on the road :D They certainly had a lot of grip and heat resistance.

I will try to make it to Mt Cotton on sunday to spectate. One of my mate from Adelaide is up and I don't know what time I will get home on Sund morning :) Good luck with your runs.

Edited by 9krpm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...