Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well how much is different? -

different body kit

different rims

engine mods?

exhaust mods?

interior changes don't matter.

if you really wanted one, it wouldn't be any different than bringing in a modded R34, just gotta find standard parts. Actually come to think of it, i don't think the kit may matter too much... as long as it's not too low, spoiler too high, etc...... hmmm...

TK R34 has non standard suspension parts (not just the strut), engine parts (boltons, but still), seats (big ADR no no), underbody diffusers etc.

I think the first reply says it all. Too much hassle. I don't forsee any compliancer who knows what a TK R34 GTt is to agree readily.

  • 3 weeks later...

Are they the only modifications to TK R34 GTTs?

My mate just bought one today (picks up tomorrow) and I've been trying to find info about the TK versions with no luck.

Pics of it are here http://ucn.dealernet.com.au/photo.php?ucni...515F063F3A58B2F

Edited by MattyP
a few of em came in under the old CPA import scheme... I remember back in 2002 or something HPI had a writeup on a black TK R34 GTt.

I almost bought a R34 GTT TK edition! but it was $42K!!! So i just got a 33 GTSt back in the early 'noughties'

Except from the bodykit and built in SatNav kit, i wasnt aware of any other mechanical differences... But, my point is that the importer was able to comply them!

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

of course you can dude! here is what you do:

Give me your money - i'll buy it and drive it here in japan for the year it takes to be able to import it under the personal import scheme and then i'll stick it on a boat and it's all yours! no compliance costs and you get my personal guarantee that i won't drift it or take it to track days or gymkahnas! :(:P

As long as the engine modifications aren't severe then yes it can be done. We have imported several modified R33's and R34's because we have access to stock parts which can be swapped for the pits and compliancing and then swapped back afterwards. Car's with bodykits (not over the top of course), interior mods etc. will pass compliancing and the pits. We sent a R33 with a FMIC fitted over the pits a while back and passed no worries. If you would like me to go into more detail or have any questions just ask.

Cheers,

hey,

I saw a black one with a tommi kit and other associated tommi stuff all over it for sale at phantom motorsports in brisbane not long ago, i recall seing an odd build plate in the engine bay, but I only looked briefly so I can't be sure, might've been something else

mark.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...