Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pics as requested :P

Could not find any scratches or dints on the car (excluding the bonnet) due to new spray.

That white R32 is real nice, might consider it :D

Aftermarket steering wheel will be replaced with stock and the big boost gauge will be removed and a small one will be placed near the drink i think.

- Patrick

Honestly, I'd pass on that one

People on carsales are dreamers, you can get a R33 series 2 in good condition for $15k, an R32 should cost around 10k

When I imported my 32 it ended up costing me $15000 on road.

Expensive, nah one of the cleanest 32's I’ve seen, no dints, no scratches the interior was mint, it was stock but I wanted to do my own mods.

Yeah the average 32 goes for around the 10k mark. But most of the time you pay for what you get.

In fact the 32 has held its price, 33's are getting cheaper every day.

Dr Drift :D take it to a proper mechanic, cost less unless you go to a Performance workshop (you wouldnt need to).

A test drive and inspection is a MUST.

Good luck mate.

Dr Drift no good? care to elaborate?

But i agree, 13k and its ok provided that there in no accident damage to suspension etc...

Dude please dont get me wrong.

I'm not saying Dr Drift isn’t any good; his chips sure seem to work well.

Sam isn't a qualified mechanic, he's a computer programer.

But id take it to a qualified mechanic, there are quite a few good workshops around that area.

Seller states the car comes with kyb shocks and springs but is unsure.

The ride did feel really bumpy, but have not been in a clean r32 to benchmark againts.

I'm actually considering that white R32, although $15,000 is a bit too expensive at the moment.

Would also need to include insurance ($2500~)

So it would add up to $18,000 to get it on the road...

Even if he drops it by $1000, thats still a hefty price.

I could probably get the black R32 down to 10-11 if i pay in cash or half loan the white r32.

Decisions hrm..

Dude please dont get me wrong.

I'm not saying Dr Drift isn’t any good; his chips sure seem to work well.

Sam isn't a qualified mechanic, he's a computer programer.

But id take it to a qualified mechanic, there are quite a few good workshops around that area.

maybe, but he knows what problems to look for when it comes to thrashed skylines/slivias.

most mechanics even if they are good may miss something such as a problem that is model specific.

mate you need to check out every r32 you can even if you don't think you're really interested in the car. you say you're a noob well go look and ride in 20 gtst's and get aquanted with how they should look, feel and work.

For me, i'm lucky that i've found my 1st car that i truly am feeling good about, an 1993 R32 GTS-t Type-M (pictures attached). 99% stock with an auction grade of 4.5 for $12,000 complianced and RWC, then i've got warranty(optional), stamp duty, registration and insurance to put ontop of that, but i'm happy with what i've found - It's a risk i am willing to take with importing.

that one sure looks clean inside! original steering wheel looks mint :O

no offence mate, but you've asked for our opinions and we've basically all told you to pass.

however, you seem to have your heart set on this car.

I personally wouldn't buy a car that hasn't be sprayed properly - I hate 2 colour resprays where the boot/engine/door jams haven't been done. All that says is cheap respray to me.

Alot of these guys have seen alot of 32s, so trust them.

Don't let emotion cloud your judgement... if you stand back you'll see that this is a pretty ratty 32 that may take 3-4K to get to good condition.

I would definatly not buy that.. at least not for that price.

Did anyone notice that those 1st two photo's have been photoshopped with that filter?? I forget what it's called.

As Sam said, keep looking at 32's so you get a feel for the average condition of paint, the common problems, and the average market value ect ect..

for the price they're asking, I think you could get a much much cleaner example

As ronin said, don't buy this car because you have your hear set on it.. stop imagining yourself driving it, or having it in your driveway.

good luck though, whatever you decide to do

Why the bad word on Dr Drift?

He knows nissans better than anyone I know. A normal mechanic will not know the specific things to look for!

He would tell you straight everything that needs doing and he's a good bloke on top of that. Wouldn't rip you off.

Dr Drift :thumbsup: take it to a proper mechanic, cost less unless you go to a Performance workshop (you wouldnt need to).

Thanks all for your input.

After reading the opinions and looking back on the inspections. I'd rather wait until a better one shows up.

What i was originally after was a 1993 gun metal r32, but thought the black one was a good deal.

In the meantime, i will postpone the searching until the semester hols in which i will have my license.

Regards

- Patrick

Why the bad word on Dr Drift?

He knows nissans better than anyone I know. A normal mechanic will not know the specific things to look for!

He would tell you straight everything that needs doing and he's a good bloke on top of that. Wouldn't rip you off.

what do you mean 'normal mechanic'

sam isnt a mechanic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...