Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pics as requested :P

Could not find any scratches or dints on the car (excluding the bonnet) due to new spray.

That white R32 is real nice, might consider it :D

Aftermarket steering wheel will be replaced with stock and the big boost gauge will be removed and a small one will be placed near the drink i think.

- Patrick

Honestly, I'd pass on that one

People on carsales are dreamers, you can get a R33 series 2 in good condition for $15k, an R32 should cost around 10k

When I imported my 32 it ended up costing me $15000 on road.

Expensive, nah one of the cleanest 32's I’ve seen, no dints, no scratches the interior was mint, it was stock but I wanted to do my own mods.

Yeah the average 32 goes for around the 10k mark. But most of the time you pay for what you get.

In fact the 32 has held its price, 33's are getting cheaper every day.

Dr Drift :D take it to a proper mechanic, cost less unless you go to a Performance workshop (you wouldnt need to).

A test drive and inspection is a MUST.

Good luck mate.

Dr Drift no good? care to elaborate?

But i agree, 13k and its ok provided that there in no accident damage to suspension etc...

Dude please dont get me wrong.

I'm not saying Dr Drift isn’t any good; his chips sure seem to work well.

Sam isn't a qualified mechanic, he's a computer programer.

But id take it to a qualified mechanic, there are quite a few good workshops around that area.

Seller states the car comes with kyb shocks and springs but is unsure.

The ride did feel really bumpy, but have not been in a clean r32 to benchmark againts.

I'm actually considering that white R32, although $15,000 is a bit too expensive at the moment.

Would also need to include insurance ($2500~)

So it would add up to $18,000 to get it on the road...

Even if he drops it by $1000, thats still a hefty price.

I could probably get the black R32 down to 10-11 if i pay in cash or half loan the white r32.

Decisions hrm..

Dude please dont get me wrong.

I'm not saying Dr Drift isn’t any good; his chips sure seem to work well.

Sam isn't a qualified mechanic, he's a computer programer.

But id take it to a qualified mechanic, there are quite a few good workshops around that area.

maybe, but he knows what problems to look for when it comes to thrashed skylines/slivias.

most mechanics even if they are good may miss something such as a problem that is model specific.

mate you need to check out every r32 you can even if you don't think you're really interested in the car. you say you're a noob well go look and ride in 20 gtst's and get aquanted with how they should look, feel and work.

For me, i'm lucky that i've found my 1st car that i truly am feeling good about, an 1993 R32 GTS-t Type-M (pictures attached). 99% stock with an auction grade of 4.5 for $12,000 complianced and RWC, then i've got warranty(optional), stamp duty, registration and insurance to put ontop of that, but i'm happy with what i've found - It's a risk i am willing to take with importing.

that one sure looks clean inside! original steering wheel looks mint :O

no offence mate, but you've asked for our opinions and we've basically all told you to pass.

however, you seem to have your heart set on this car.

I personally wouldn't buy a car that hasn't be sprayed properly - I hate 2 colour resprays where the boot/engine/door jams haven't been done. All that says is cheap respray to me.

Alot of these guys have seen alot of 32s, so trust them.

Don't let emotion cloud your judgement... if you stand back you'll see that this is a pretty ratty 32 that may take 3-4K to get to good condition.

I would definatly not buy that.. at least not for that price.

Did anyone notice that those 1st two photo's have been photoshopped with that filter?? I forget what it's called.

As Sam said, keep looking at 32's so you get a feel for the average condition of paint, the common problems, and the average market value ect ect..

for the price they're asking, I think you could get a much much cleaner example

As ronin said, don't buy this car because you have your hear set on it.. stop imagining yourself driving it, or having it in your driveway.

good luck though, whatever you decide to do

Why the bad word on Dr Drift?

He knows nissans better than anyone I know. A normal mechanic will not know the specific things to look for!

He would tell you straight everything that needs doing and he's a good bloke on top of that. Wouldn't rip you off.

Dr Drift :thumbsup: take it to a proper mechanic, cost less unless you go to a Performance workshop (you wouldnt need to).

Thanks all for your input.

After reading the opinions and looking back on the inspections. I'd rather wait until a better one shows up.

What i was originally after was a 1993 gun metal r32, but thought the black one was a good deal.

In the meantime, i will postpone the searching until the semester hols in which i will have my license.

Regards

- Patrick

Why the bad word on Dr Drift?

He knows nissans better than anyone I know. A normal mechanic will not know the specific things to look for!

He would tell you straight everything that needs doing and he's a good bloke on top of that. Wouldn't rip you off.

what do you mean 'normal mechanic'

sam isnt a mechanic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...