Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I read up in a mag that some guy in the US "I think" Has made a 4 cil per piston turbo engine.

Just wondering if I did a rebuild and made the 20 a 24 put 6 T25's or maybe the 28 how would it go.

Also what would I need to do

I know I would need a aftermarket CPU or chip the 32 one

Bigger injectors and Fuel pump

what do you guys think?

This is a what if BTW.

Edited by 7yphon

You are kidding right.....

you want to put 6 turbos on an RB20? where exactly? 3 in the boot and 3 in the passanger seat?

Even If you managed via some technical mastery to fit 6 turbos on the side of an rb20 it would not spool untill 9000+ rpm....

Perhaps you should buy yourself a bag of HKS sand and give the head a port and polish first...

Here is a really good guide on doing it

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...74&hl=hks++sand

the rb20 has enough trouble pushing 1 of it's own turbos let alone 6.

Anything bigger than a 2510/2530 and the rb20 sucks starts becoming quite low in response. Especially in the low rpm range.

people have done 2 stock rb20 turbos on an rb20 and it was laggy as hell. 6 - you have to be dreaming.

Why don't you go an odd 7? :thumbsup:

6 running off the engine and 1 runningoff all of the combined wastegate collections. Wouldn't be that hard and cheap too?

This guy did a car with 8. BEAT THAT MOFOZZZ!!! It has 50 hundered horsepowers.

Eidt - damn grammar.

Edited by chrissso

well whats I was thinking was 6 T05's you know the small exar turbo's off the 1.6 they are very small hey and cheap so if they blow who cares

Edit: I downloaded that guys Engine run Sounds sooooo sweet even for a V8

Edited by 7yphon

given its a what if ill throw in my what if solution..

forget 6 t25's or the like, ideally what you'd be better of looking at is something like the turbos found on either starlets, or more preferably, the 600cc k cars out of japan, something really small...

a few reasons for this

size, the physical turbo's themsleves are not big, and ideally, with smart plumbing, you could possibly pull it off, without having to chop apart the firewall/strut towers to get them all in, probably involve some careateive manifold runners and a careful think through

response, given the 600cc jobs are driven by very little, ideally, with 2.4l of capacity, you'd still end up with a car that actually had boost below 6k

tuning it would be mighty interesting but itd be fairly exciting to pull off.. if i had wads of cash laying around and was bored id go do it for a giggle myself

I don't think there are turbos small enough to make it doable. You will be feeding each turbo with ~330-400cc cylinders, each of which are not good turbo spool cylinders. 6 T25s would be ridiculously laggy. No way near worth the effort or expense.

Here is a pic of an EVO 4G63 with 4 turbos though, to give a rough idea of what a "clean" turbo per cylinder setup looks like:

1702067fl.jpg

Edited by Lithium

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...