Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Clock Fuse.

mazgtr

By mazgtr,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted
when i got my gtr the clock didnt work but didnt worry me, and my head light switch s##t it self and got one on ebay and come with dash surround with clock so i chucked it in and works fine, i have heard they are just cheap

Cheers Chris, I've just replaced my headlight switch so perhaps I should give my clock another go.

I did a search on clocks and turned up this post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=3723&hl=clock#

The author mentions something about the power for the clock running from the headunit power?

My headunit is aftermarket. What about you Matt and Steve?

Food for thought, hopefully have time to have a look tomorrow.

mazgtr Community Regular

mazgtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, mine is an aftermarket JVC head deck.

You reckon the installer might of unplugged the clock and not reconnected it.

Could be a good guess.

I tried those 2 fuses marked "Electronic Parts", buggered if i know what they do, installing and removeing a fuse did nothing, as far as i could tell!!LOL!!!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted
the clock should have 4 wires going into it, earth, constant 12v, ignition, and illumation.

both the ingtion and constant 12v wires should be on fuses.

I just took a look at the clock.

I have 12.20V constant and 12.20V ignition. I have tried two clocks and I'm stumped.

Next I'll pull the clock apart and see what I can see. Maybe, just maybe I have two dead clocks...?

Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted

The clock only fails when the boost has been raised above factory levels. The sneaky Nissan engineers cleverly designed the clock to fail when the AFM voltage exceeded a certain level. When the owners complained of the clock not working, the Nissan dealers simply plugged in the Consult diagnostics tool and noted that the boost level was excessive. This then gave them the evidence needed to refuse engine warranty claims later on.

Or on second thoughts.........maybe the clocks are just cheap pieces of crap.

cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted
The clock only fails when the boost has been raised above factory levels. The sneaky Nissan engineers cleverly designed the clock to fail when the AFM voltage exceeded a certain level. When the owners complained of the clock not working, the Nissan dealers simply plugged in the Consult diagnostics tool and noted that the boost level was excessive. This then gave them the evidence needed to refuse engine warranty claims later on.

Or on second thoughts.........maybe the clocks are just cheap pieces of crap.

My car was dyno'd and displayed 12psi. It is a stock ECU with stock turbos and stock AFMs. I thought that was about right? Hrmmm. The highest I've seen my AFM voltage is in the vicinity of 3V - I thought they max out at 5V...?

I appreciate your post Gav but I'm not sure as I've not seen how to use Consult to check the boost level. Which Consult program are you using? I've used different laptop and PDA software and haven't come across boost.

Do you remember your info source please? I'm keen to learn more.

Cheers!

Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted
My car was dyno'd and displayed 12psi. It is a stock ECU with stock turbos and stock AFMs. I thought that was about right? Hrmmm. The highest I've seen my AFM voltage is in the vicinity of 3V - I thought they max out at 5V...?

I appreciate your post Gav but I'm not sure as I've not seen how to use Consult to check the boost level. Which Consult program are you using? I've used different laptop and PDA software and haven't come across boost.

Do you remember your info source please? I'm keen to learn more.

Cheers!

Sorry - just me being obtuse and starting another "conspiracy theory"

Definately just a poor quality clock - probably as a result of going way over budget on the development of the GT-R and the production budget had probably dried up by the time they got to finishing bits like the clock.

  • 3 months later...
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

well i have noticed that as i increase launch rpm my clock reads 00:03, 00:02, 00:01 then 00:60... also when chicks with ample rack walk past it often switching into a flashing mode where it flashes 80:08 on and off until they are out of sight?! other than that it works fine. in fact both my 32 clocks work fine. praise the son of rajab!

soul-reaver Rookie

soul-reaver

Posted
Posted

Yeah mine clock also does not work when I got the car.

I took the dash off once to fix my speedo cable and when I plugged everything back the clock came back. but after a few days it dissapeared again.

Hope you guys can find out the cause of it and I'll give it a try again. GL

  • 7 months later...
NRB Rising Star

NRB

Posted
Posted

Mine's never worked and was led to believe that it was a common occurence. I started the thread linked to above (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3723), but nothing ever came of that thread :woot:

I would love to have a clock in the car; I'm getting sick of looking at my mobile for the time...

  • 1 year later...
Jez13 Mentor

Jez13

Posted
Posted
Mine's never worked and was led to believe that it was a common occurence. I started the thread linked to above (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3723), but nothing ever came of that thread :P

I would love to have a clock in the car; I'm getting sick of looking at my mobile for the time...

I agree, totally sick of not having a clock and there is no way im buying a nasty stick-anywhere clock. It would be dynamite if there was a smick looking aftermarket clock that fit nicely into the origional opening. Wishful thinking, hopefully someone comes up with something :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...