Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a Cefiro, that has had a 5 Speed manual conversion... Still an RB20DET engine.

I'm trying to figure out what gearbox it has, eg: R32GTS(-T -R), R33 GTS(-T)? My question is there anyway to identify which type of car each specific gearbox came from from the above example? EG: model/part number on the gearbox or similar...???? Clutch may need replacement so, kinda need to know :P

Kind Regards.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118104-identifying-codes-on-gearbox/
Share on other sites

for r31/r32/a31/z31 rb20 boxes, RP71C is the model and next to that is either #1 or #2 which denote either single or double syncros, generally double syncros are only in the turbo variants... the ribs on the gearbox casings I have found don't always match if its a turbo or not as I've pulled a few ribbed boxes from N/A vl commodores and they look identical to an import turbo box, but they arent the same.

easiest give away with your car quikblade, would be to check the box cross member, pretty sure an a31 manual cross member will bolt straight up to the body of and a31 auto cefiro, if its got a modified crossmember then its likely its a 25 box cos they're longer (just) than the 20 box!

Edited by frigjam
  SirRacer said:
the box on the right is a r32 gtst/gts25de box (better than normal de box)

you can tell its the turbo box due to the amount of ribbing on the box (others dont have half as much) and the red hose on top

out of curiosity what is the red hose? :noob:

The easies way to tell the difference between an RB20 and RB25 gearboxes (assuming the 25 box is of a turbo origin) is pop your head under the the drivers side and have a look at your clutch slave cylinders.

RB20DE(T) & RB25DE

18.jpg

RB25DET

29.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

The filler plug is on the passenger’s side of the box. From memory you will need 17 or a 19mm spanner. Unless you have an oil pump you will have to run a hose and funnel setup from under the bonnet to the hole. You'll need two people, one to hold the hose, the other to pure the oil in.

I hope that makes sense.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...