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Is that based on experience in your old Rex or the GTR when you first got it? Either way, thanks...often thought about Hawk pads but very little feedback on them from Skyline owners :D

That is the current set up on the GT-R. I also used Hawk blues on the Sti with some race brake comp 9's on the back.

Regards

Andrew

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Most of our drivers are trained to trail brake, so we use HT10's front and rear. You won't find any problem getting them up to temperature in a lap dash/super sprint environment. In half a lap warm up we see well over 300 degrees at the rotor (we have infrared temp measurement).

Ok, you have the cool toys :D

Good to see they actually work after a lap or two. The guys here in the Vic WRX club were having issues and went back to the Blues.

It seems the blues are getting harder to come by in the AP 6 pot pattern as well...

Regards

Andrew

Edited by BBGTR
It's cold in Mexico :)

and they really need to learn how to warm up the brakes as well as the tyres :O

:blink: Cheers :w00t:

BBBWWWHAHAHAHA. I'll pass that on to some of the errm, bigger less articulate blokes for a reponse :worship:

Well, im hoping the Porsche GT3 6 pot calipers come through for me, but another option i have looked into in is the new Corvette 6 pot caliper with some 343-355 x 32 mm brake rotors, initial numbers have it coming in at around $2500

z06-vette-brakes.jpg

So either these or the Porsche brakes will do me just fine

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm after a brake upgrade too. My local track is symmonds planes, and our super sprints go for 4 hot laps at a time.

I currantly have standard disks and calipers, with bendex ultimate pads, and castrol srf. But by the end of day i have no brakes. Performance wise my brakes are fine at the start of the day, I just want them to last. I was thinking of putting bigger groved disks on, putting some braded lines in, and rigging up some ducting for the brakes.

any help would be great.

Start with some proper pads & fresh brake fluid (Dot 4-600). The discs aren't the problem unless they are under thickness, warped or grooved.

Ducting is a good idea. So is one of those Cusco brake stoppers as the R32 firewall flexes an unnerving amount under load.

Depending on how hard you mash the brakes, the braided brake lines aren't a necessity. They may make the pedal feel harder, but don't help you stop better to any real degree unless you are boiling the brake fluid which you shouldn't be.

SP looks to have some very big stops. Ok it has some nice long straights to cool them back down so with ducting i would be hopeful you could keep pad and rotor temps under control.

But at the end of the day, with GTRs that have more grunt then std..say over 250rwkws, you typically are tryign to stop 1600kgs of fluids/steel and driver...so 296mm rotors may not always be enough.

HAs anyone actually had success from running tweaked std brakes on modded R32 GTRs at the track? Just about every GTR driver says they struggle for brakes..the GTSTs with similar brakes, l;ess weight and power seem to handle track work a lot better

my car currantly has 226 rwkw, but i have hks 2530's going on soon, so i will should easy have 250rwkw.

SP has 2 very big stops, and one moderate one. I'm doing about 170-180 going into hairpin, braking a 150m down to about 40-50. Then up the back straight i get to about 200-210, at the 200m mark down to about 80-90. Then From the top of 3rd gear down to about 80-90 for the first corner. All of that in 1:06.

From reading the thread, I got the idea that spending big money on brakes wasn't realy needed. But i'm getting the fealing SP demands a bit more money spent on brakes.

Any kit recomendations? A guy that was there on the weekend in a GTR had just installed a $4300 AP racing kit (6 pot fronts, 2 peice groved rotors, and all the screws and shit), i'm not keen on spending that much if i don't need it.

Ducting would be the first place to start...then some temp indicating paint for the next visit. See if you can an idea of the temps you are reachoing and make sure your pad is good for it, and your fluid is top shelf. You may find your ok...

Yeh, i suspect SP is a bit like Sandown, good fun but hard on brakes and engien temps because of the tiem you spend on the brakes slowing the thing and the time you spend on the throttle belting back up through the gears.

Best bang for buck which doesnt involve custom gear, would have to be the CSC 343mm 4 pot kit. It will fit inside 17" wheels (well it fitted inside my WEDS but not AVS) and has a nice 343 x 32mm rotor and uses Porsche pads, so plebty of pad compounds available. For abotu $2800 including some street pads its about the best bolt on kit i know of. Sell your std brakes and rotors for $500-400 inc rotors to an S13 lad and they look to be good value.

HAs anyone actually had success from running tweaked std brakes on modded R32 GTRs at the track? Just about every GTR driver says they struggle for brakes..the GTSTs with similar brakes, l;ess weight and power seem to handle track work a lot better

The Production R32GTR N1 runs the standard Brembos with DBA rotors, AP600 fluid, braided lines and Hawk pads. No problems in a 1 hour race at Bathurst, 2 hour race at Oran Park or 1 hour race at Eastern Creek. It won all of those races by the way.

Does that count?

:D cheers :)

PS; Obviously it's full weight, no lightening what so ever is allowed and the driver is not light.

The Production R32GTR N1 runs the standard Brembos with DBA rotors, AP600 fluid, braided lines and Hawk pads. No problems in a 1 hour race at Bathurst, 2 hour race at Oran Park or 1 hour race at Eastern Creek. It won all of those races by the way.

Does that count?

:D cheers :)

PS; Obviously it's full weight, no lightening what so ever is allowed and the driver is not light.

Thats an R32 with R33 GTR brakes though isnt it? 324mm rotors. So its a healthy step up from 296mm, and would i be correct in saying that it would not have as much power as many ppl street GTR????

Thats an R32 with R33 GTR brakes though isnt it? 324mm rotors. So its a healthy step up from 296mm, and would i be correct in saying that it would not have as much power as many ppl street GTR????

Slightly different Brembos on the R33GTR's, but close enough.

The engine is full N1 spec, blue printed very carefully, N1 turbos, no cat, race exhaust etc

ECU is free, hence it has a Motec

So the power is ample (or in RR terms, "adequate")

The trick is it goes around corners very well, so it doesn't use the brakes as much as some.

The Improved Production GTR actually has less power due to the turbo restrictors

But it is lighter and has more suspension mods, so it ultimately does quicker lap times

But not because of power, it simply goes around the corners even faster

The reality is I think State Championship level racing puts more emphasis on braking performance than a lap dash, super sprint, hillclimb or social track day. Keeping those persky Evo's out under brakes for 1/2 an hour requires some braking performance.

:D cheers :)

...ok.

LOL, one last question, dotn know how relevant it is to GTRs etc though. What are your experiences with these cars at Sandown, and or Symmonds Plains? I know for instance Sandown is much harder on my cars brakes then say Eastern Creek or Oran Park ever where??

Massively off topic BUT SK that High Energy sump u have in ur sig, is that the bees knees? i.e what i should be looking for? i was going to get on of fitz's sump adapters and a trust enlarged kit, or is one of them High Energy ones better?

I haven’t been interstate racing with the GTR’s, but Sandown certainly was no harder on brakes with the RX7. It runs very high brake temps at 2 spots on the circuit at Sandown but Oran Park has 3 very high spots and Eastern Creek has 2 highs and 2 very highs. Oran Park is the highest brake wear circuit.

You can certainly see the brake temps drop as you increase the corner speed. I really believe that’s the secret. You only have to look at the lap times, there are 600+bhp highly modified Skylines that are 5 seconds a lap slower than the Production GTR. It isn’t straight line speed, it’s all in the corners. That means the brakes work harder to get the higher straightline terminal speed down to the lower cornering speed.

The bottom line, as I always say, spend the $6K on suspension and driving lessons. You will do a faster lap time than spending the same $6K on brakes.

:dry: cheers :thumbsup:

PS; the High Energy sump currently in the sig. is the best off the shelf solution I have found for a 2wd. Obviously they won’t fit a 4wd, the Performance Metalcraft sump is the best for them.

Edited by Sydneykid
Ducting would be the first place to start...then some temp indicating paint for the next visit. See if you can an idea of the temps you are reachoing and make sure your pad is good for it, and your fluid is top shelf. You may find your ok...

Yeh, i suspect SP is a bit like Sandown, good fun but hard on brakes and engien temps because of the tiem you spend on the brakes slowing the thing and the time you spend on the throttle belting back up through the gears.

Best bang for buck which doesnt involve custom gear, would have to be the CSC 343mm 4 pot kit. It will fit inside 17" wheels (well it fitted inside my WEDS but not AVS) and has a nice 343 x 32mm rotor and uses Porsche pads, so plebty of pad compounds available. For abotu $2800 including some street pads its about the best bolt on kit i know of. Sell your std brakes and rotors for $500-400 inc rotors to an S13 lad and they look to be good value.

Have you had the CSC's before Troy??

Me? Nope. But have spoken to a few of the WRX guys and a Commodore guy that runs them. He has 320rwkws in his HSV and the thing would weigh about, what 1750kg? So if he is happy.

I did have them all trial fitted to my car...i decided to do my own setup which is what you saw sitting on the loungeroom floor :dry:

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