Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Front is pretty crappy imho.

The R34 looks so much better from that angle.

Im not that keen on the smooth curve of the rear either, but that could look better in the metal.

Side view though..

That is bloody nice :)

Aggressive as all hell and just looks right.

It was always going to look similar to the 250Z, Skyline, Maxima, etc. to maintain that current Nissan DNA.

The R34 is great, but you don't get anywhere copying old designs, R31 to R32 was revolution, R32 to R34 (~12 years) was evolution, now we're back to revolution for a new modern look.

I think it's a step in the right direction for Nissan personally, They want to take on the global market with the next gen. GTR, but only time will tell if this gtr can leave the same mark that the R32 GTR left when it was first released.

No matter how great the R34gtr is, I still see the Euro supercar purists say things like, "but our cars look so much better", "It only beats my car because it was modified" etc.

I hope that this next GTR can shut up the purists & critics

The future of the GTR is looking very good I say :D

i dont really like it, the front end, especially the lights just looks plain ugly to me, but it is startin to grow on me. overall a pretty mean package though. did anyone else notice the bentley continental GT rear end, and, to a lesser extent, side profile.

im predicting its gonna be at least a 6 figure price tag on this baby.

its gonna be in a class of its own if australia gets it

the r 32 gtr was a 6 figure car when released in australia so this one should be a bit bgger with the 6 figures

  • 2 months later...

I like the way that article read, lived up to the emotion the GTR badge brings. I am liking the design of the new one too, just wishing the would stay with the straight-six which has been a part of the GTR legend since the beginning - (EDIT) but there is as more money at sake (less development dollars for the existing V6) than there is necessarily passion for the big wigs calling the shots. Regardless it'll be awesome no doubt.

Edited by GT-R32
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...