Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a few newbie questions regarding r32 gtr's that I was hoping some people could answer.

How reliable are they as a daily driver? How likely are things to go wrong and how expensive are general repairs?

Whats fuel economy like?

Looking at the mods on these two cars, can anyone advise whats not legal? Are they good buys?

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/...rch_distance=25

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/...5&cs_trans_id=2

Any advice would be much appreciated, cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118969-newbie-r32-gtr-questions/
Share on other sites

I had a few newbie questions regarding r32 gtr's that I was hoping some people could answer.

How reliable are they as a daily driver? How likely are things to go wrong and how expensive are general repairs?

Whats fuel economy like?

Looking at the mods on these two cars, can anyone advise whats not legal? Are they good buys?

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/...rch_distance=25

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/...5&cs_trans_id=2

Any advice would be much appreciated, cheers.

Prices look about right mate. Make sure you get a full compression and leek down test before you buy if it where me I would probably go for the first one.

cheers

For info, 89/90 models were not available in white (read: respray). Not that a respray is necessarily a bad thing, but worth being aware of.

My car is an 89. As good as stock. 65L(ish) provides around 450km. I am grateful I don't have to drive mine daily - you appreciate it more plus as they are old cars the little stuff may piss you off. I have a 'to do' list in my garage :P Speaking from own experience only.

General repairs cost the same as most other cars. Tuning and replacing go-fast bits are the expensive parts.

You can't tell a good buy until you look at it, listen to it, test the motor (as Munna1 advised) and then drive it.

My advice would be to keep the later models in mind as well. Check out an 89 and a 94 model just to see what the difference in condition is like.

Hope this helps mate.

Dont forget these costs

insurance ... if you are under 25.. u need a good job to pay for it, some charge $4000 - $5000 for full comp

Stamp duty

gearbox and diff oil flush

General seal on engine...

turbo's? age? have they been replaced.. if not.. they will normally fail at around 100,000kms

timing belt change?

Daily driver is ok... but expect wear..

plus you will be addicted to driving it for first year.. if it is your only car

If you drive the car hard it will be uneconomical, If you like to launch it just see your front tyres wear like buggery. Then you drive it and go stuff it to much fun, then you go more power and speed, then GTR equals money pit!

It all depends on how you treat the car and what you want to do with it.

I would question any vehicle that is cheap and has had a respray, especially in white!

The Japanese actually really, really like white cars. Bizarre, but true. So having been resprayed in white probably makes it the least questionable (& most common). Just make sure, like everything, that it has been done well & is in good condition.

Pretty much question any car regardless and you should hopefully always minimise the risk of getting a lemon.

I've recently bought a 93 Vspec and its been a very good and reliable car. No problems so far. I've just done the 100K service and replaced the normal bits and pieces. 89s are generally in poor condition, go and have a look at some late model ones. They are expensive but worth the extra money IMO. Or import you own, some workshops in VIC and QLD can complience late model ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...