Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It seemed wierd to me - but I would doubt that the alternator wasn't up to it. I can't think how much a pair of headlights uses, but it won't be that much compared to the difference in, say, fan settings between 1 and 4, having you AC on or not, etc. Lights use stuff all compared to them. Is there some regulation in Japan against having double headlights?

I've always preferred the double headlight look. So if your mate invents a thingymawotsit, I would be interested too - I am assuming he knows what he is doing?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11959-headlights/#findComment-212854
Share on other sites

Just looking at the headlight wiring on my R32. It sure looks like it could benefit from some relays and thicker wires. I doubt it would be safe to increase bulb wattage without doing so. If you run a heavy wire from the battery to the relay don't forget to put in a fuse or circuit breaker. It shouldn't be too hard to wire the lights to work together and upgrade the wiring at the same time. It should make a huge difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11959-headlights/#findComment-214681
Share on other sites

I just noticed this happens, last Monday on the GOR cruise, as i wanted to take a photo with all my lights on.

Just thinking about it, it should not be too difficult. You need a 12V relay, a fuse and a soldiering iron. Just off head, if you were to use the wire from your hi-beams as an input trigger to your relay. Then from the output of the relay tap into the wires going to your low-beams this should work. I would need to find out if the wiring is +ve or -ve trigger.

I will try it on the weekend and let you know.

If my idea is completly wrong and is going to cause trouble please let me know, as i think it might work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11959-headlights/#findComment-214709
Share on other sites

It sounds to me like a relay set up is the way to go. I would be surprised it there weren't existing relays in the headlight wiring as it is. It should then be just a matter of connecting the two relays, but I would have to see the wiring diagram (but not being a sparky, I wouldn't set too much store on my opinion!!). Still trying to digest the wiring diagrams from Megala's site ....

I also agree with Majanal, that if you are fiddling around with the lights and wiring, you could take the opporunity to upgrade to Halogen bulbs, even the new high intensity type. Can you get the sexy blue ones for Skylines?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11959-headlights/#findComment-216284
Share on other sites

Hey All

just a quick word of caution, check how much you are drawing from the battery before you make this mod permanent. The alternator isnt designed to run 4 headlamps at best, and if you factor in amps, ECUs and anything else you may be running, it could lead to a very flat battery very quickly.

My 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11959-headlights/#findComment-237892
Share on other sites

I have the OptiBlue HID globes in my R33. My dip beam still isn't anywhere near bright enough! Does anyone have any sugestions? Would getting the exterior lenses all cleaned up make a big difference? Does anyone know anywhere in Sydney that does this and could reseal the lights? Mine leak too!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11959-headlights/#findComment-242754
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...