Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What i dont get in the first post, is you where saying after putting the rb 25 into you car the tailshaft seemed to long? say 3cm, that means the engine/gearbox would be sitting back 3cm, so the gearbox mounts wouldnt line up? and then you said about the gearstick sitting forward? or somethuing, im really confuised, from the other posts ive read the gearbox should stay the same?

im so glad im using my wiring guy to do the loom, does it over night :rofl: perfect 100% of the time

JV

its because he went from auto to manual. box length isn't the same and neither are the mounts

ok so should it stay the same length manual to manual?

like ive got a rb20 witha 25box, made the custom mounts already, will the length stay the same for the tailshaft??

cheers JV

no... the gearbox is longer and the bolts dont line up! (custom xmember) also modify tailshaft (shorter) is required!

what do you mean, do you mean a r33 box needs custom mounts to mount in a r32? if so i have already done that,

I have a rb20 with a rb25 gearbox, i have modified the gearbox mount as it sits further back so the holes line up, and i have a 1piece customs tailshaft,

So When i stick the rb25 engine in, will the gearbox still mount up with my custom mounts? or am i going to have to modify them again>?

hope this made it clearer,

JV

i never had any problems with the gear box mount nor the tail shaft.

neither need modifying except for the yoke on the end to fit the output on the box...no length change was needed.

how??

the rb25 and 25 box are bothe bigger hence the gearbox being longer than the standard rb20 xmember mounting points!

so saying that with the 25box and engine the mount sits 2cm ish further back. then u need to mod the yoke and shorten the tailshaft!

Adrian,

Stress less about the tail shaft. All that is required is to cut the old RB20det yoke off the R32 rb20det tail shaft and weld the rb25det yoke on to it.

Thge rb25det box sits something like 10mm back than the rb20det box. When you remove and clean up the old weld etc from the rb20det yoke thats the 10mm or so required. So stress less drop it off at the local Adelaide tail shaft services and simply have them swap the yokes + balance for $90.

Quiz Shaun he will tell you the same. I've done it to mine and thats how it is with the factory 5speed R32 GTST's. :down: The Ceffy's and auto R32 GTST's have slightly different mounting positions.

So Oblivion your R32 is an Auto from factory. :ninja:

I have a question about the swap. I got my rb25 but one og the mounts is broken. Someone told me I can take the motor brackets of the rb20 and put it on the rb25 and still be able to use my old mounts. Is this true?

  • 3 weeks later...

ok so ive almost done my rb25 conversion,

things i might mention,

My rb20 accel cable works fine on this engine, have a bit of room for adjustment, so it can be tightened if i wanna tighten it a bit, (maybe because i got my engine from a stagea? different throttle body?)

If you want to use the non hicas pump, use the rb25 balancer, i found my rb20 balancer ps belt was 4 ribs and the rb25 1 is 3 ribs for ps, the rb25 ps bracket u cant fit the rb20 one onto either,

if you get a awd motor, you will have to mod the sump, i bashed mine with a hammer, most bolts fit in except about 3, so it should be fine, (fingers crossed),

also, if using a awd motor, the 4 bolts from the gearbox to engine (on the bottom) theres nothing to bolt them into on the side of the engine, i just bolted them up anyways and had it rest on the side of the engine,

anything else i will add later,

JV

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

been mentioned several times in various threads about the wipers when doin the conversion. easiest way is to un splice the rb20 loom and take the smaller sub loom to the wiper motor and add it to your rb25 loom.

  • 2 months later...

I'm done labeling the RB25 dash plug (big one next to the ECU) and almost done with the RB20 plugs. I also started a little guide to show which wires connect to each other f.e. :

12 pin plug (R32) = PIN 1 R32 Black/Pink TO R33 Black/Pink. I'm still missing 7 wires.

What I've got now is :

16 pin plug

R32 R33

Pin 1 : Black Black

Pin 2 : Yellow/green Brown/yellow

Pin 3 : Yellow Yellow

Pin 4 : Yellow/red Yellow/red

Pin 5 : ??? ???

Pin 6 : ------ ------

Pin 7 : ------ ------

Pin 8 : Black/yellow ???

Pin 9 : Light green.red Pink + Black

Pin 10: -------- -------

Pin 11: Yellow/purple Yellow/purple

Pin 12 to Pin 16 are empty

12 Pin plug

Pin 1 : Black/pink Black/pink

Pin 2 : Yellow/green Yellow/green

Pin 3 : Orange Red/white

Pin 4 : Black/yellow Grey.red

Pin 5 : Brown ????

Pin 6 : Light green ????

Pin 7 : ???? ????

Pin 8 : Yellow/red Yellow/blue

Pin 9 : --------- -------

Pin 10: Light green/black ????

Pin 11: Light green/ red ????

Pin 12: Black Black

And the last 12 Pin plug (big one) that has 2 wires I don't know them

might make it a little easyer if you know what the wires are not just the colours ect to write that next to it aswell...

i cant really be bothered my dash and vct still dont work but it runs still so im happy lol..

I also know what they are...thats how I made this guide :

16 pin plug

R32 R33

Pin 1 : Black Black

Pin 2 : Yellow/green Brown/yellow

Pin 3 : Yellow Yellow

Pin 4 : Yellow/red Yellow/red

Pin 5 : ??? ???

Pin 6 : ------ ------

Pin 7 : ------ ------

Pin 8 : Black/yellow ???

Pin 9 : Light green.red Pink + Black

Pin 10: -------- -------

Pin 11: Yellow/purple Yellow/purple

Pin 12 to Pin 16 are empty

12 Pin plug

Pin 1 : Black/pink Black/pink

Pin 2 : Yellow/green Yellow/green

Pin 3 : Orange Red/white

Pin 4 : Black/yellow Grey.red

Pin 5 : Brown ????

Pin 6 : Light green ????

Pin 7 : ???? ????

Pin 8 : Yellow/red Yellow/blue

Pin 9 : --------- -------

Pin 10: Light green/black ????

Pin 11: Light green/ red ????

Pin 12: Black Black

And the last 12 Pin plug (big one) that has 2 wires I don't know them

  • 3 weeks later...

Here is my wiring - I think there are some errors, but it should help. I will revise if there are any errors.

r32_rb25_wiring01.doc

This is for series1 rb25 engine, don't know anything about series2.

Please don't ask me mountains of questions, I probably don't know, it's been years and years since the conversion.

Diagram 1 shows the location near the airbox side. The 2nd plug near there I think can be left spare.

post-1332-1239700934_thumb.jpg

Diagram 3. Up near the wiper area there is another plug which is pretty much spare. Run another wire from the orange to the footwell area.

post-1332-1239700992_thumb.jpg

Diagram 3b is where to run this extra wiring to the footwell plug. Off this run the thick black and the thick white to the fuel pump resistor

post-1332-1239701168_thumb.jpg

Diagram 4 shows near the passenger footwell on the r32 body loom, which is the fattest plug. As far as I remember this is "spare".

post-1332-1239701087_thumb.jpg

Diagram 5 is the main two plugs which need most of the wiring from the old rb25 body loom plug cut and wired to these.

post-1332-1239701184_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry for resurrecting an oldish thread Not much has happened in the past year since the last update. The car did another 1000 miles or so and failed the MOT for the first time in October (failed on tyres which had been advised for a couple of years) In October the car got put up for sale and was removed in November due to no interest, being so close to christmas it was to be expected. The roads were dry in February so I decided to tax it early and get the new tyres fitted.   Fast forward to April, I got someone in to give the car a good clean after sitting for the winter.                                 The car got re-advertised and today (Saturday 3rd May) the car sold. The new owner is planning a GTR conversion at some point and a respray in the same pearl white. It's bitter sweet, it's a shame to have the car sit there for half the year and then only do 1000 miles. The kids are growing too quick and space in the back is getting limited. It's been a great 6.5 years of ownership
    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
×
×
  • Create New...