Jump to content
SAU Community

Front Diff/sump Removal

Turbine

By Turbine,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Turbine Collaborator

Turbine

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, I have taken on the job of removing our old RB20DET out of the GTS4 (oil pump failed, stuffed rod bearings :laugh: .

Fun Job. I have the engine out, but I left the front diff/sump still in the car. I need to get the sump out.

Is it a drama to remove it. Do I have to remove the drivers side driveshaft?? :D

Lots of people have done this job quite differently by taking the engine, sump/diff out together. I guess I'll learn :P

Any advice will help. Thanks

Turbine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120046-front-diffsump-removal/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

ouch! how much work did it take to remove the engine without the sump lol!

anyway, its easy from here, the driver's side drive shaft pulls out, just undo the lower control arm and pull the hub out and pop!

what on earth is holding the sump in place if the engine mounts are gone?

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

It's no point pulling the hub, because the CV joints simply expand. You need to "punch" the shaft out of the differential. There is a machined groove in the CV joint - get a screwdriver or similar in there and whack with a sizeable hammer / mallet.

It will probably be made more difficult by the fact that the sump is "floating" and has nothing to really hold it in place.

It's much easier with the sump attached to the block, but you need to virtually disassemble the RH suspension to get the shaft in and out.

Turbine Collaborator

Turbine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It didnt take long once all the sump bolts and nuts were off, it just fell off the engine.

So the lower control/ pitman arm joint has to come apart. What about the tie rod?

Well with the engine out, the sump is just sitting on the crossmember loose.

Hopefully the thing will pop out from the drivers side. Looks like it's just splined into the diff and their is an o-ring into the diff housing as well as the shaft seal and thats it.

:D

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted (edited)
  Turbine said:
It didnt take long once all the sump bolts and nuts were off, it just fell off the engine.

So the lower control/ pitman arm joint has to come apart. What about the tie rod?

Well with the engine out, the sump is just sitting on the crossmember loose.

Hopefully the thing will pop out from the drivers side. Looks like it's just splined into the diff and their is an o-ring into the diff housing as well as the shaft seal and thats it.

:thumbsup:

undo the top drivers side arm long bolt and take off the steering rod end, and also the coilover off the bottom eye hole. take the brake line mounts off to allow it more room to pull the hub outwards away from the car (but brake calipers and lines can stay connected).

pull the hub down and turn it fully one way and pull the shaft out of the back of the hub (once the main shaft big nut is undone) and slid the other end out the diff using something to budge it off the circlip. shaft only just short enough to get out of the hub with abit of force :banana:

other side is just a flange to flange setup so undo the 6 bolts i think it is and pull the sump out :(

Edited by CruiseLiner
  • 2 weeks later...
Turbine Collaborator

Turbine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I took everybodys advice.....and decided to leave the sump/diff in the car.

Cleaned all the metal out of the sump (rod bearing material) ready for the refreshed engine.

Lowered the engine assy in on top of the sump, all done. Was easier to fit than remove.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      Ben's R32 Gtst Build

      By Roy · Posted

      Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • MBS206
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Shizu
      Returning after a long time!

      By Shizu · Posted

      Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • dbm7
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...