Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I used to get about 320kms to the tank when i first bought the car (2 years ago), then only recently i used Wynn's injector cleaner (one of those you fill in the tank), i am now getting 450-470Kms to the tank-full.

Wynns injector cleaner huh - i think i mite need that. Mines running at an average of 350klms - best has been 420klms (only once)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/4/#findComment-2260208
Share on other sites

  • Replies 242
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I just tried some injector cleaner and it seems to have given me a few extra kms. I used to get around 400-420kms before the fuel light came on but yesterday i reached 490kms (r33 gtst)! I used redline SI-1 fuel system cleaner. I also changed the sparkplugs recently so maybe that helped too. anyway im pretty happy with the results as my previous car used to only get me 400kms from a 50l tank and that was a 1.6l!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/4/#findComment-2270770
Share on other sites

I get around 400 km before the lights come on from my Gtt, does that seem abit less? Its completely stock, just wondering how much other Gtt drivers on here is getting form a full tank before the lights come on.

Edited by JUNR34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/4/#findComment-2284428
Share on other sites

I gots a tiptronic

and yeah peaked the 400 before the light.

but mind you,

car has not been pampered yet...only recently off the boat.

so have changed oil

and changed plugs yesterday

, still wanna clean afm, and then see, and if need be will possibly change the oxygen sensor

heres a thing though, i wanted to clean the throttle body, but when i pulled the crossover pipe off.. it was spotlessly clean.. so i figure leave it for now.

i did get the wrong plugs though.. i think.. have only had R33's before and i used BCP6E's

So off i went and bought those..

then pulled everything apart... and it had a weird pga6g or something strange.. I am just gonna run these BCP6Es-11 until i figure out whats what.. hahahaha

will post up after a week or so, let you know new fuel figures

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/4/#findComment-2285209
Share on other sites

Same mine's a tiptronic too just got it recently from Jap as well, thought I might need to change the oxygen sensor. Think ill just go buy a bottle of injector cleaner like the others suggested and see how much I get out of a full tank. Cheers post it up be good to see what your getting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/4/#findComment-2285871
Share on other sites

right what do u guys think of this

put in 21.47 litres and got 158km out of it.

when i pumped in 21.47 litres the needle was right on the E line

i have a stock auto r32 gtst. i am thinking its running rich, can hear it pop in the stock exhaust!, but we dont reaaly see any sort of unburnt fuel smoke (black)

comments?

also while i am at it, a bit side tracked but i romped my foot down tonight and it reved out to nearly 7900 RPM!! that cant be good for the engine! way past solid red for a split second then it changed normaly to the next gear

is my auto gone?

Edited by J_R32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/4/#findComment-2290363
Share on other sites

Hey guys.. im drivin a r33 gtst pretty stock.. high boost at 0.7 low at 0.5... was wonderin.. my petrol consumption is kinda high.. i pump bout $55 and i only get bout 300kms... im relaly considerin to buy the wynn fuel injector cleaners.. any idea where i can get it? and how much does it cost as im getting broke :) havin big repairs on my car.. i think i pump bout 40-45 litres i get bout 300-320kms.. is tat reasonable or is tat low?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/4/#findComment-2292831
Share on other sites

My old passage GT got well over 600km from a tank but it was mostly constant driving back and forth from bunbury to mandurah at 110km!

Oh i forgot to mention that it had a stock RB20 "ET", manual and 65L tank. The A/C didn't work and the windows always stay up. All of which would help i suppose.

My R33R auto gets about 450km to 480km tank going easy, mostly on cold nights.

Got to thank boss for the work van and fuel card, only have fill up once a fortnight! :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/4/#findComment-2308657
Share on other sites

whats anyones ideas on rebooting the computer (pull off battery lead, press brake peddle, connect battery lead) just done it after oil change and bit of a service and fuel economy has got worse :P would this affect my safc2 (i know this has battery back up). any ideas :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/4/#findComment-2311041
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
    • HG's high flow is not "bolt on". The core is shorter, moves the comp cover rearwards in the engine bay. means you have to deal with the inlet plumbing a little bit. This is probably something to consider with every "bolt on" turbo anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...