Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I currently drive a R33 NA 96 Gts4 skyline n looking do rb25det engine swap...WITHOUT turbo charging my current motor i.e the rb25de

Ive read the forums n check out how ppl turbo charged there na skyline. all is well however,

What i wanna know is.. is there any out there has done an engine conversion for a GTS4 or GTS using an GTST Rb25det engine??

I am aware that if placing a Rb25det motor in a GTS4 i will need to modify the sump due to the Attessa 4wd, get a: turbo back exhuast,fuel pump, intercooler n up graded breaks.

If any has done this conversion whether on a GTS4 or GTS, can u tell me the problems you experienced down the track eg gear box slipping etc. any other suggestions!

This be greatly appreciated!

Regards

Shorty

Edited by shorty_01
  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You wanna do what?

if you already have R33 GTS4 then you should have RB25DE.

ok I got that part.

but you want to do RB25DET conversion but DO NOT want to TURBO charge it?!?!? WTF? and why not?

ok I think you are confused about all the lettering in SKYULINES.

GTS4 = GTS Skylines with 4WD ATTESSA system Non-turbo RB25DE or RB20DE

*when some one says I have GTS4, it means he has 4WD ATTESSA system not he/she has 4doors*---LOL - common mistake with noobs

GTS 4 Door = GTS skyklines with 4 Door NO ATTESSA Non-turbo RB25DE or RB20DE

GTS-R = R31 Skylines with RB20DET (2 Door only me think)

GTST = GTS Skylines with RB25DET (series 1 &1.5) 2door and 4door

GTS25T = R33 GTS skylines with RB25DET (Series 2) 2 door and 4door

GTST 4door = 4door skylines with RB25DET.

so if you have 4WD 1996 R33 GTS4 (series 2 I presume), then you dont have to do anymodifying, you need $7000 for RB26DETT engine + labour , new breaks, looms, ECU...etc...etc.

Does this help?

if you want to go turbo you will need a rb25det out of a 4wd stagea. there pretty rare so you would be better off just converting your engine to turbo. if your worryed about compression run a thicker head gasket or get your engine rebuilt with turbo pistons.

then all you need is turbo, turbo manifold, injectors, AFM, turbo ecu(if there is any difference), intercooler and pipes and a few other little things. its been done meny times before and most people dont have any problems running it on stock internals. you just have to rember you cant run alot of boost.

lmao @ PVAGLUE....

i think what he's getting at is that he wants a turbo motor (without turbo charging his current motor i.e the rb25de)

basically you've got 4 options:

- rb25det from a stagea, it will be an auto (like geoff said)

- rb26dett from any gtr

- rb20det from an r32 gts4

- turbo your current motor

go from your budget and application, then work from there.

eug

hey,

Thanks for replys all!

I have a series 2 2 door GTS4 ( yes with 4wd attessa) . I have heard if placing an RB25det in to the engine bay all i need to do is adjust the sump?

Stagea engines are hard and too long to source. Botling on a turbo means stock internals no high boost...

So has anyone done this type of turbo engine convserion (gts4 or gts )???? IF so can u PM with info. Cheers

Thanks peoples

Edited by shorty_01

i cant belive ur still asking about this ... from memory u asked me ages ago but not to worry

my advice is just wack a turbo on the DE motor then its basically a NEO motor (R34 RB25DET NEO runs higher compresion)

you could give steve from manta racing a ring or shaun from boost worx

Manta Automotive Services Richmond 08 8234 8688

Boost Worx Hi Performance Panorama 08 8299 0621

i cant tell you where mine gone done because i bought the car like it if u really want i think i got the dude who owned the car and i could try ringing him and asking

1 other note is there is a possability that the crown gears may get chewed due to more torque and power

ive had to replace my from crown and it hurt the wallet big time and we never did get to the cause of the problem :S

ahh Madaz, u still memeber LOL!

Thanks mate for info. Man Crown Gears.... shits... sounds bad.

Ill give boostworxs a call.

Yeh that would be grealty apprciated if u could get into contact with prevous owner. Just enquring about the SUmp adjusted in the GTS4. Btw my rides an auto -_- lol.

Aint autos transmission meant to have kick ass durability in the skylines?

regards shorty

Edited by shorty_01

u might want to catch up and we can chat face to face u can have a look @ the job done on my car and go from there

wot u have to take into consideration is that chaging from R33 engine to stagea u need to change all crown gears cause imo stag run different ratios

So is everyone here saying you can't just remove the RB25DE and drop in an RB25DET from an R33 GTS-t?

RoD

u could but u have to remove sump and put the attessa sump on and that has the diff attached to it and the axel running through the midle of it

in my opinion least hassel cheapest option would be bolt on turbo and get ecu and all other bits

***

sorry shorty cant find the guys number that owned my car i think i threw it away lasat weekend :(

Edited by Madaz

Hey madaz,

all goods mans,

Spoke to Shuan from boostworx like a month ago n he qouted me 3,500-4000g for total engine transplant with sump adjusted + tuning+ inc labour.

But i have family mechanic who can do it for cheaper rate =P

Yeh i think its a good idea we catch up n i sus ya ride out. Whenever is fine. Perhaps over this long weekend.

I did this conversion for my R32 GTS4 - I chose to use the Stagea engine. It is highly doubtful that a RB25DET (RWD) block can have a AWD sump bolted to it.

Ahh... so u put a Rb25det into ur R32 Gts4? How much did your stages set u back & where did u source it from?

Also Madaz said.

"wot u have to take into consideration is that chaging from R33 engine to stagea u need to change all crown gears cause imo stag run different ratios"

Did u do this blind elk?

Thanks

Shorty

Edited by shorty_01

I managed to find one at Central Motor Wreckers in Ballarat - $4G, engine and (auto) gearbox only. All-up cost was around $8G, after converting the engine to accept manual gearbox, and adding Wolf 3D ECU.

The Stagea runs 4.083 diff ratios - it is relatively easy to swap your current diff (crown wheel AND pinion gear) into the Stagea housing. I eventually changed to the Stagea ratios front and rear, because the RB25DET had so much more torque that I didn't need the standard (R32) 4.375 ratios

Hey Blind elk,

" The Stagea runs 4.083 diff ratios - it is relatively easy to swap your current diff (crown wheel AND pinion gear) into the Stagea housing. I eventually changed to the Stagea ratios front and rear, because the RB25DET had so much more torque that I didn't need the standard (R32) 4.375 ratios"

That sounds pricey man.... can u give me an estimate using aftermarket bits please.

Greatly appreciate the feed back people.

I think this topic will be of good use to future ppl who want to do this . And i believe i be the 1st to post info n progress aboutit. So its good for all =)

Keep your ideas n opionions coming !

SHorty =)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...