Jump to content
SAU Community

Bass Junky's 1998 R34 Gtt

Bass Junky
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

Hey ppls.

Well, it has finally come down to it and I need to sell my pride and joy.

You all know how much I love my car, and I make this decision with a heavy heavy heart. :laugh:

It has been serviced every 5k-7.5k kilometers and every 10-15ks I change all fluids, including diff and gearbox.

Specs

1998, R34 GTT

Platinum Silver in colour, has a bit of a purple pearl in some lights (standard colour)

Nismo Sports Front Bar

Standard Rear Bar

Just clicked over 90,000klms

Interior

Apline 7876R Head Unit. Top of the range a couple of years ago.

Soundstream Front Splits. ($350)

Soundstream Rear 6 inch co-axes. ($450)

Standard Seats

Apexi Pen style Turbo Timer

Nismo Solid Shifter

Total Spent on interior Mods $800 odd

Engine

Stanard internals

Tomie Poncams, 260 Degree duration, 9.16 lift ($950)

HKS Adjustable Exhaust Cam Wheel, set at 0 ($150)

Nismo 480cc injectors ($900)

HKS Front Mount Kit ($1500)

GCG High Flow ($1950)

BATMBL Split front dump ($450)

Race Pace Super High Flow Cat ($250)

Fujitsubo Power Getter Exhaust ($1000)

Street rear pipe which gives exactly 90dB ($400)

Meridian Motorsports Oil Cooler Kil ($450)

Bass Junky Bits Radiator Deflector ($80)

Splitfire Coil Packs ($650)

PowerFC and hand controller ($1000)

Tune by Race Pace ($750)

Total Spent on Engine bay mods $10,480 odd

Drivetrain and Suspension

Whiteline Springs ($500)

Koni Adjustable Gas Shocks ($1200)

Whiteline Front and Rear Sway bars, adjustable both ends ($500)

Whiteline Rear Camber Kit ($200)

Whiteline Sub Frame Locking Kit ($100)

Whiteline Front Camber Kit ($200)

Whiteline Front Offset Castor Rod Bushes

Geoffs Hicas Locking Bar

Exedy Sports Tuff Clutch ($400)

Brand New Kaaz 1.5 Way LSD ($1500)

Buddy Club P1 Racing Rims in Hyper Gold

Hankook K104 Ventus Sport tyres, 50% tread front and rear

Total Spent on Suspension and Drivelilne mods $4,600 odd

So you can see I've spent around $16k building a tough car.

I'm sure that I've spent more, and I'll add things I've done at the thread grows if required.

As you can see from the graph below, it's a solid performer.

Achievements

Dyno

250 rwkw, Race Pace Dyno (Chart Below)

It's a solid performer and will have a tune refresh before sale after I fixed the wastegate the other day.

Quarter Mile

12.9 @ 113 mph. The car is good for mids 12s with the right rubber.

Track

Winton

1.45:4 (when it had 200rwkw)

DECA, well, you know how it goes at DECA.

Will come with Road Worthy Certificate.

Price

$34,000

This price is very reasonable for a car with the amount of work which mine has had put into it.

I wash and was it regluarly, I drive it very sedatly on the roads, infact I've never gotten a speeding fine in this car.

Nothing has been left to chance on this car. If I though it needed something new, I just went and bought it. If something wore out, or needed replacing, I replaced it with the best.

Try to build it cheaper........

NO Test Pilots.

NOBODY will be driving my car until I see a deposit.

I will take you on as many drives as you want, but until you are going to front with the money, there will be no piloting.

post-6399-1149683432.jpg

post-6399-1149683455.jpg

post-6399-1149683473.jpg

post-6399-1149683491.jpg

post-6399-1149683514.jpg

post-6399-1149683556.jpg

post-6399-1149683578.jpg

post-6399-1149683613.jpg

post-6399-1149683639.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121377-bass-junkys-1998-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
AutoTrust Mentor

AutoTrust

Posted
Posted
Bass has managed to sort out his finances.

Bass keeps his car.

Bass will be throwing down slide and rubber for many events to come!

(voice of austin powers) Yeah baby YEAH!

Good to hear mate, :D that's a pretty big scare to have.

Smell your burning tyres at a meet soon!

sloutch Mentor

sloutch

Posted
Posted

Sorry for the hijack, but Bass, did you mention in ur list that your clutch cost you only $400???? What sort of clutch is that and where u got that price from?!?!? that's cheap as for a pull type clutch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...