Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats kinda nice coz you can see the fuel pressure.... kinda

you wont need an FPR for 11psi+pod mate

I run 16psi (GCG) on stock ecu, pod, full split exhaust/highflow cat/catback and GTR FMIC. The only thing you need to look for is R&R which i occasionally hit and fuel isnt that great :D

Thats kinda nice coz you can see the fuel pressure.... kinda

you wont need an FPR for 11psi+pod mate

I run 16psi (GCG) on stock ecu, pod, full split exhaust/highflow cat/catback and GTR FMIC. The only thing you need to look for is R&R which i occasionally hit and fuel isnt that great :D

hi what rwkw do you make is it a rb25 and what is a (GCG) is it a rb25. and i thinck it will be ok to get it now for other mods later like a e-manage ULTIMATE. and what is R&R.

Edited by RB SANDY

Have a look at the Nismo adjustable FPR (~$140 from Nengun) it bolts directly onto the fuel rail, so it saves buying a fuel rail fitting, hoses and clamps.

Nismo_AFPR.jpg

As used by Sydneykid and Mines, so it can’t be that bad

:D cheers :D

SK, I have just ordered a nismo fuel pump and regulator "as pictured" along with a set of nismo 600cc injectors to strengten my fuel system and be in a position to upgrade to r34n1 turbos or other low mounts GTSS maybe for track and targa.. I have a standard R33 GTR except for apexi powerfc and boost controller which made 283rwkw post an exhaust change. My question is after fitting the regulator do you maintain the standard pressure as it now "guaranteed" or should you increase it and if so to what pressure.

Edited by sparkmanv11
hi what rwkw do you make is it a rb25 and what is a (GCG) is it a rb25. and i thinck it will be ok to get it now for other mods later like a e-manage ULTIMATE. and what is R&R.

RWKW...naa mate, I make AWKW :P.

Yeh, RB25 in a Stagea. Made 160awkw with the coilpacks breaking up above 5000rpm. Peak power is still climbing at like, 7000 rpm too.

GCG is the turbo, a highflowed standard turbo. www.gcg.com.au

R&R is rich and retard, the ecu retards ign timing and richens up the mixture. Feels like a bit fat bang, then it slowly builds up again and off you go. Its pretty annoying...

BTW, that was on a hub dyno... the best kind of dyno

Have a look at the Nismo adjustable FPR (~$140 from Nengun) it bolts directly onto the fuel rail, so it saves buying a fuel rail fitting, hoses and clamps.

Nismo_AFPR.jpg

As used by Sydneykid and Mines, so it can’t be that bad

:P cheers ;)

Hey guys, just a quick and possibly stupid question :)

Do the RB20s have a FPR as standard? If so, is it that little object that sits in front of the inlet manifold that plumbs into the fuel rail? And if it is, why the hell does it have a little rubber hose that connects the side of it to the inlet manifold? I don't understand why an FPR would need to read or use inlet pressure??? But that's because I'm an idiot :( I see that one SK posted also has a little nipple that looks like the same position as the one on what I think is my standard FPR.

Please help me out of this confusion :)

Ben.

Anyway, this thread is about fuel regulators. I wouldn't trust a cheap one. I tried a Malpassi but wasn't happy with it - noisy and inconsistant pressure.

When it comes down to it, it's a very important piece of gear and it could cost a shitload if something goes wrong.

I'm not one of these 'give me brand names or give me death' kind of people but there are some things I wouldn't trust to the cheap end of the market.

Anyway, this thread is about fuel regulators. I wouldn't trust a cheap one. I tried a Malpassi but wasn't happy with it - noisy and inconsistant pressure.

When it comes down to it, it's a very important piece of gear and it could cost a shitload if something goes wrong.

I'm not one of these 'give me brand names or give me death' kind of people but there are some things I wouldn't trust to the cheap end of the market.

exactly why i'm going to a Nismo FPR... no machined aluminium, no anodizing, just something that should do it's job and is virtually Nissan sanctioned... while cheap to boot!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...