Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The long one is a castor rod. Japanese call them tension rods. Essentially they are adjustable and change the castor of the front suspension. Basically castor changes the axis that the wheel pivots on...so when you turn the wheel the actual contact patch of the tyre changes.

Ppl typically tweek castor so that it gives them some camber(dynamic) whislt turning the wheel. When they straighten the wheel it goes back to normal so you are not havign to run excess static camber for corner grip, as thats the sort of camber you normally hear ppl complaining about giving them poor tyre wear.

The second shorter ones are tie rod ends. Basically they screw on the end of the steering tie rod that comes out of the steering rack and is fastened to the hub.

Both pics use ball joints which are pretty racey...some ppl like the directness and feel they give you, others complain about the noise and wear.

yes. The r32/silvia castor rods are the same no matter the brand.

But not all castor rods are created equal :unsure: As geoff said, neither of the pictured items look to be of particularly good quality.

i find the cheaper / generic castor rods to be better, because usually the rose joints are standard sizes and you can get much better quality bearings for them, ie teflon bearings. (i.e. hit up http://www.linearbearings.com.au/ to find info on better quality rod ends for automotive use)

I don't think Tien/cusco have standard sizes, which is why i've avoided them. Bearings are a wear and tear component and should be checked regularly.

(the rod ends www.garage-13.com sell as "dmax castor rods" are the ones i'm talking about they use standard 16L metric rod ends 16mm left hand thread)

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig

quality of rose joint.. I'm no expert, but there are several factors, basically the material and casting quality of the ball and housing, some have a race, some are raceless Some wear faster than others, are poorly lubricated and i've seen housings break. Buy ones which are specified for motorsport use and you'll be fine. The cheapo justjap/no name brands are usually fairly crappy, but you get what you pay for. "brand name" jap brands are probably better but who knows! the ones i'm using have a nice solid body construction, if you put a good bearing in them they are great. (even the cheapest replacement rod end you can buy ~$15-20 looks better than some of the jap brands)

Infact i broke one myself during a fairly nasty accident which involved hitting a ripplestrip front-on (this is what drove me to replace the bearings with something decent... though probably any rod end would do this after being hit hard enough)

In general, the more you pay the better! you can pay over $100 for a rod end.

castor.jpg

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig

i can't download that pic for some reason,

longer castor rod = less castor, which is probably not what you want

Most brands will allow for roughly the same level of adjustment, maybe it just looks longer in the different pics

keep in mind also. S13/r32/z32 are all the same, but awd r32's have different rods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...