Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

very nice. does that second reverse light help ? i got the factory rear fog light.

and with my reverse camera behind the rear window its hard to see with just one light

Doesnt really help trying to see out the back glass thats for sure. Theres a reason i havnt shown the rear left quarter. Because it hasnt been re sprayed yet from when i reveresed into my ss at night :P

Heading out somewhere this arvo and my mate is gunna try and do a hdr pic of the stag for me. So ill post that up if it works

Edited by Mouseness
I cracked how to launch it...Make sure synchro is off!....put it into 1st then you just gotta get the boost up.....left foot hard on the brake and right foot to the floor on the loud peddle.....rear wheels should just start to spin as the boost comes up....then let off your brake and see you later.....shift at between 5500 and 5750 and it should bounce of the the limiter then come back to a solid no slipping second....ect.

only other less violent way is as above......get it moving on half throttle first then foot to the floor.

P.S. You should be able to do better than an X5......I've smoked a 2002 WRX and a VZSS(Auto)....just!

Jetwreck....I like your style....just the launch it!!!!! I'm keen to also find out if the auto can be tricked upped through ecu mapping & play with the shift points, I know of LS1 owners having there Auto TM's tweaked for harder kick back etc...

BTW to keep with the theme of the thread...here are pics of my recent purchase M35 AXIS...you can also check out the Thread on Project AXIS.

Cheers

TT

post-639-1226828740_thumb.jpg

post-639-1226828777_thumb.jpg

post-639-1226828803_thumb.jpg

post-639-1226828828_thumb.jpg

post-639-1226828883_thumb.jpg

what wheels are they? look better than the gtt ones

brycey go black with that lip

Those are V35 Skyline 350GT wheels, and seeing that car with those wheels was why I snapped up a set when they became available, as per below...

NewWheels3.jpg

A few photo's of my Stag..

What it looked like when it landed in AUS..

stagea4.jpg

stagea.jpg

Most recent pic's i have.. Since then ive had my personalised plates transfered.

09062008053.jpg

09062008057.jpg

IMG_0027.jpg

IMG_0033.jpg

Edited by SHIZNT
Those are V35 Skyline 350GT wheels, and seeing that car with those wheels was why I snapped up a set when they became available, as per below...

NewWheels3.jpg

those rims look fantastic!! even better if they were on my car :P

Ahh the old Brycey wagon, good to see it's still in top shelf condition. :P

Show us your towbar set up! :)

towbar pics:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4218675

it's a 260RS, factory twin turbo manual all wheel drive. same as a GTR just in wagon form essentially.

WTF Factory twin turbo 260RS????

that car was a non turbo from when nissan made the car, some1 just added the rb26 with the gtr front.

have the look at the dash and doors

79983932_full.jpg

it's a 260RS, factory twin turbo manual all wheel drive. same as a GTR just in wagon form essentially.

dude i was being sarcastic. im well aware of the 260RS lol

i sitll stand by my comment :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...