Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

hasn't been a meet for a while.. last one I missed anyhow! im sure the guys would be keen at some stage to organise one :P

p.s. mine needs a scrub too.. damn this spring rain!!! >.<

Edited by atomaly
hasn't been a meet for a while.. last one I missed anyhow! im sure the guys would be keen at some stage to organise one :ermm:

p.s. mine needs a scrub too.. damn this spring rain!!! >.<

Mine is a dirty ho too. :P

I was trying to organise a Stagea Dyno day, dont want it too big but that would make a great Melbourne meet... Have to see if the owner is interested yet.

awesome, sounds good - maybe once the weather gets a bit fairer - although they have said it will be a wet spring, which is fvcked - so over winter.

and no fun at all for you with a black car!! i'm loving white already, so easy to keep clean, just pulled into the car wash this morning - $1 in the high pressure washer, sprayed off the dirt and its back to new!!

A couple of quick snaps I took a few months back.

looking good mate

whats the specs on the front mount? its pretty much exactly what i'm looking for

have to hack up the front bar/reo much?

looking good mate

whats the specs on the front mount? its pretty much exactly what i'm looking for

have to hack up the front bar/reo much?

Hey, thanks!

Cooler is abit of a custom item. If you look at the where the Inlet and Outlet is there's a weld separating them them. When I first purchased the cooler I got it home and had a closer look. it was more or less a Single tank. I figured Air will flow the route with the least amount of resistance, therefore rendering the core useless. So we removed the tank and cut it in half and welded in a plate that would divide the tank into 2x. Pressure tested and all.

Only down side to this design is when used on Big HP Applications there is almost guaranteed Boost Drop as the air would be cooled twice. No worries for a nimble Stagea :)

Reo copped the usual chop. As I mounted the cooler as low as possible to allow as much air exposure as possible. But I did a neat job with enough room to run a piece of Vac Hose along it to prevent any such rubbing. Also managed to retain all the Under Body plastics.

Mine is a dirty ho too. :P

I was trying to organise a Stagea Dyno day, dont want it too big but that would make a great Melbourne meet... Have to see if the owner is interested yet.

i would be up for a stagea meet sometime..dyno day you just want to show us how much power your car makes ..you win

i would be up for a stagea meet sometime..dyno day you just want to show us how much power your car makes ..you win

But mine is only a little turbo, its only the fuel... I seem to remember you at one of the RE days talking about ecu's and turbo's. Arent you interested anymore?

Funny, as an M35 owner I used to look up to you c34 guys in awe at the power you could make with a quick chip and tune, after a lot of hard work I got there eventually. Now I want to help all the other guys...

Hey, thanks!

Cooler is abit of a custom item. If you look at the where the Inlet and Outlet is there's a weld separating them them. When I first purchased the cooler I got it home and had a closer look. it was more or less a Single tank. I figured Air will flow the route with the least amount of resistance, therefore rendering the core useless. So we removed the tank and cut it in half and welded in a plate that would divide the tank into 2x. Pressure tested and all.

Only down side to this design is when used on Big HP Applications there is almost guaranteed Boost Drop as the air would be cooled twice. No worries for a nimble Stagea :)

Reo copped the usual chop. As I mounted the cooler as low as possible to allow as much air exposure as possible. But I did a neat job with enough room to run a piece of Vac Hose along it to prevent any such rubbing. Also managed to retain all the Under Body plastics.

i might have to get you to help me out over summer, its one of the many things that is on the shopping list when i get back

But mine is only a little turbo, its only the fuel... I seem to remember you at one of the RE days talking about ecu's and turbo's. Arent you interested anymore?

Funny, as an M35 owner I used to look up to you c34 guys in awe at the power you could make with a quick chip and tune, after a lot of hard work I got there eventually. Now I want to help all the other guys...

yeh got the nistune done but nothing else atm lack of funds next fmic then look into high flow turbo its a slow process but will happen

  • 4 weeks later...

The family runner, finally got to take some pics.

not many mods, but have replaced the exhaust with a blitz system,

meisters, new ebc and some other stuff.

It took us to exmouth and back to perth nicely. [sans the ol manifold studs snapping]

has the RS steering wheel, and the whole family LOVES IT!

Currently on tein lowered springs, does need moar low tho. :(

DSCF9010.jpg

DSCF9009.jpg

DSCF9011.jpg

DSCF9012.jpg

give us a shout if you see it about! :blush:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...