Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 158
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks for the input guys, think ill get this pioneer DEH-P6850MP. I saw it on ebay for $375, most places are selling it for just over $500 so i'll have to work out where to get it.

deh_p6850mp_es.jpg

this one has a motorised face and is all blue instead of part blue and part red compared with the 5850 I originally looked at....

deh_p5850mp_es.jpg

Edited by r32line

its really up to you - however these are my suggestions ( I sell these as well.)

kenwood:

KDCMP5033U - $429

KDC-MP5033U_500.jpg

INFO

KDCMP7533U - $499

KDC-X7533U.jpg

INFO

DPXMP4090 - $499

DPX-MP4090.jpg

INFO

Blaupunkt.

BAHAMAS MP46 - $299

bahamasmp46md.JPG

INFO

ACAPULCO MP54 - $499 ($599RRP)

this one will tune itself to the car's acoustics.

acapulcomp54.jpeg

INFO

I have a few more in mind as well. prices listed on the kenwood gear are RRP. ask as I probably can do better :D

Edited by Chris Rogers

I like the way Chris Rogers is heading with the Blaupunkt head units, I have heard good things about these units as of late, they are a quality, yet unfortunately overlooked brand.

Personally Pioneer is not a brand I would consider using in my own vehicle, I have had mates use the lower end stuff, with poor results, such as internal failure after several years.

My Choices would be from these three following brands:

Eclipse

Alpine

JVC

Edited by MintR33

Appreciate it guys, my only issue with Blaupunkt or Kenwood is that i havent seen a headunit they make in my budget that i like the look of. That mite sound silly, but realistically, i think quality wise around that price not a huge difference and i really like the look of the pioneer 6850 (ref above).

Altohough there were some jvc units i mite consider, but they are a bit too flashy i think, also my sub is a 12" pioneer and rears are 6" 3-way pioneer's, but the amp is a jvc, haha. I'd like to keep it to those brands if possible :D

I am going to say something here that will most likely annoy some viewers. But...

STAY AWAY FROM BLAUPUNKT!

I hope I made that clear, just in case you are in doubt.

STAY AWAY FROM BLAUPUNKT!

Sure the quality of the units are ok, but the after sales support from Blau Australia and their lack of direction in Australia has seen them do a massive shift out of Car Audio. They have recently been dumped by two major chains and many independants.

Sure the Blau unit will work and sure it will sound ok, but WHEN you have a problem, and i say WHEN not if, it WILL be a major problem for you.

The entry level Blau product also uses very cheap lasers. Unfortunately the "blue dot" of quality is long gone.

Take your $500, buy through a dealer in Australia, not through ebay and go for something that has good sound quality and after sales support from the Brand.

The Pioneer Dehp6850mp you have suggested is good value for money. If you spend a little extra you can go into the Bluetooth unit, so you effectivly get a handsfree kit for your bluetooth phone.

I would also check out the new clarion range, very understated yet very good.

As for Sony, I would only look at one unit which is best bought at jb for price it is CDXGT550

Kenwood is quite good, however watch for some of their entry level product that still uses SANYO lasers and mechs. These are the same lasers found in $49 cd walkmans and suffer failure through vibration.

Kenwood use different lasers in there high end product and these do not suffer the same problem.

Yeah, you dont see Blaupunkt in many shops, i was just thinking that, and im gunna stay away from ebay, some ppl are selling usa headunits so am radio dont work and god knows what else, and where to go if there is a problem, im goin to jb tomorow, ill let you know how i go, hopefully money talks and i can get a nice unit at a decent price..

Edited by r32line

I've purchased 2 pioneer headunits off ebay and had no problems. they were both from overseas, and were both the australian version as advertised.

You take a risk warranty wise, although the seller does say it can be sent back to malaysia or where ever it came from for warranty, but who could be bothered....neither of them ever stuffed up.

The in my 33 is high end pioneer, and i got it at JB, only because I was able to get most of my shit at cost price.

Yeah it wont be much more expensive at the shop than from ebay and for peace of mind id rather the shop. The installer guy said sometimes pioneer units out of the factory can have a problem which my current unit seems to, its causeing buzz when the car is running, everything else has been checked, its down to the head unit...hence the need for a new one.

So with that in mind warranty is at the forefront of my mind. But I am slowly learning to embrase ebay

Yeah it wont be much more expensive at the shop than from ebay and for peace of mind id rather the shop. The installer guy said sometimes pioneer units out of the factory can have a problem which my current unit seems to, its causeing buzz when the car is running, everything else has been checked, its down to the head unit...hence the need for a new one.

So with that in mind warranty is at the forefront of my mind. But I am slowly learning to embrase ebay

Are you sure the buzzing isn't interference from the car's electrical system?

hey man..

i got marty to install them for me (FHRX) today..

very pleased as its a vast improvments over my stock speakers.

Now overall bass with these hertz spilts front and coxials rears are expectional.

However these arent sound deadend or amped. Still waitin on funds for that bit.

But i mean, for $300 fronts and $200 rears, you cant go wrong i guess..

But everyone has different tastes, so the hertz might not be for some people.

Anyways randy, atm these co-oxials arent bassy as you like it to be. But they do me fine for rear-fills.. But once i set the blance to middle that is, equal amount front n rear, it does sound like i got a small sub in the boot..

Cheers.

I don't think you can really extract much more power out of a head unit mate.

Might be a good idea to run an amp... even a smallish 50wrms amp will be more powerful than a headunit that puts out a peak of 50watts.

Ah yeah, I run a newer amp now... the JayCar 100wrms unit, which seems to drive them just as well as my old (large) amp. I have the balance faded to the front (+7), and the JBL's still flop around like crazy. I'm running the higher end crossover, so they are hardly getting any lower frequencies. This has stopped them from throwing the coils, but now have ZERO bass.

I might get another pair of Clarion splits, as I had suggested... $200 new, I can find them for $100ish nowdays... the new models have brought the older ones down.

got models?

most speakers will only handle 40-70w RMS (for get the big numbers they are just that , numbers.) so realistically an amplifier onf 75w RMS will drive all 4 nicely.

hey man..

i got marty to install them for me (FHRX) today..

very pleased as its a vast improvments over my stock speakers.

Now overall bass with these hertz spilts front and coxials rears are expectional.

However these arent sound deadend or amped. Still waitin on funds for that bit.

But i mean, for $300 fronts and $200 rears, you cant go wrong i guess..

But everyone has different tastes, so the hertz might not be for some people.

Anyways randy, atm these co-oxials arent bassy as you like it to be. But they do me fine for rear-fills.. But once i set the blance to middle that is, equal amount front n rear, it does sound like i got a small sub in the boot..

Cheers.

you have to get the doors deadened siddr

only $150 and some elbow grease.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...